Copyright is owned by the Author of the thesis. Permission is given for a copy to be downloaded by an individual for the purpose of research and private study only. The thesis may not be reproduced elsewhere without the permission of the Author. i Creating Food Waste: Journeys of food becoming waste in a catering kitchen. A thesis presented in partial fulfilment for the requirements of the degree of Master of Arts in Geography At Massey University, Manawatū, New Zealand. Daniel Brian Ryland 2015 ii Abstract The creation of food waste is an issue of increasing importance given growing concerns about environmental sustainability. Until recently the food waste literature has focused on the amount of food wasted with little consideration 0f the practices that create food waste beyond households and hospitals. This thesis seeks to consider food and waste practices as they occur within a catering kitchen with an aim of exploring how food waste is created. Exploring the creation of food waste in catering occurred through participant observation in a catering firm in Palmerston North, New Zealand during the summer of 2013-14. Information gathered through this technique centred on following food journeys through the catering kitchen and the moments of transition which occur as food becomes waste. Concepts of ‘becoming’ and ‘assemblages’ (Deleuze and Guattari, 1988) were drawn on to understand food waste creation, with Hetherington’s (2004) concept of conduits to inform how becomings take place. Analysis of field notes demonstrated that creating food waste in catering is not a simple process, nor a certain outcome. Instead food waste occurs as part of a vast interconnected web of interactions between food, places, people, and ideas. Conduits exist to change meaning and value inherent in food. Those conduits to avoid food waste can be found as buckets for pig feed, storage in a chiller to be made into a new dish, or staff consumption. The use of these conduits can reduce food waste, but the capacity of food to enter them is constrained by the economic and material realities of producing food for sale. Staff at the catering firm desire to reduce food waste, but time and space pressures, kitchen practices regarding food and waste, external regulations, and the material properties of food means that, while reducing food waste is desirable, it is not always possible. iii Acknowledgements Special thanks go to my supportive and longer than should have been suffering supervisors Associate Professor Juliana Mansvelt and Doctor Carolyn Morris. Without them the thesis, which was put together much like a meal, would have been served an incoherent and cold mess. I also thank Katherine Reardon, Hannah Terrey, and Cheryl Ryland who each gave me very valuable proofreading and reviewing services. Any errors and inconsistencies that remain are my own. A special mention goes out to the staff and fellow students of Massey University’s department of People, Environment, and Planning for letting me indulge in the opportunity to produce this work and the invaluable discussions of both a theoretical and distracting nature. It not only made the work possible, but much more entertaining. Most important recognition however goes to those at the function centre for letting me share their work place for a few months. Not only did they allow me to constantly get in the way, but they were always welcoming and kind despite my many stuff ups. Without their willingness to share their time and practices I would not have a thesis. iv Contents 1. Appetiser: An introduction to food waste .................................................................. 1 2. A Recipe for Food Waste ........................................................................................... 4 2.1. Prep Work: Why food waste ................................................................. 4 2.2. Ingredients: Defining concepts .......................................................... 11 2.2.1. 150 Grams of Food ....................................................................... 11 2.2.2. One Heaped Cup of Waste .......................................................... 14 2.2.3. Three Lightly Beaten Conduits ................................................... 17 2.2.4. Two Cups of Sieved Assemblages ............................................... 20 2.2.5. Mixing Ingredients: Shaping the analysis ................................... 23 2.3. Cooking: Method of data gathering ...................................................24 2.3.1. Preheating the oven: Participant observation ............................. 25 2.3.2. Heating food: The research site .................................................. 27 2.4. Concluding Comments.......................................................................29 3. Entrée: Situating food journeys .............................................................................. 31 3.1. The Place of Dining: Describing the firm ........................................... 31 3.2. Staff at The Amber Flower ................................................................. 41 3.3. Paths of Food to Waste ..................................................................... 49 3.4. Concluding Comments ....................................................................... 51 4. Vegetable Leaves ...................................................................................................... 52 4.1. Vegetables in Catering ........................................................................ 52 4.2. Vegetable Journeys ............................................................................ 55 4.2.1. A Tale of Carrots: Conduits in catering ....................................... 55 4.2.2. Conduits Across Time and Place ................................................. 71 4.3. Putting Vegetables Aside ................................................................... 74 5. Fowled Meat ............................................................................................................. 75 5.1. Importance of Meat ............................................................................ 75 5.2. Meat Journeys .................................................................................... 77 5.2.1. Creeping Contamination: Health and safety ............................... 78 5.2.2. Returning Flesh: Conduits of reuse ............................................85 v 5.3. A Centre of Meat Cleanliness ............................................................ 89 6. Crumbly Baking ....................................................................................................... 90 6.1. Importance of Baking ........................................................................ 90 6.2. Baking Journeys ................................................................................ 93 6.2.1. The Prettiness of Pastry: Outward aesthetics ............................. 93 6.2.2. The Cutting of Cake: Sweet aesthetics....................................... 102 6.3. Glazed Baking Finish ....................................................................... 107 7. A Selection of Cheeses: Discussion....................................................................... 108 8. Dessert .................................................................................................................... 114 9. References .............................................................................................................. 118 vi Table of Figures Figure 1: A view inside The Amber Flower's van. ......................................... 33 Figure 2: Onsite lunch buffet. ....................................................................... 34 Figure 3: Floor plan of The Amber Flower’s kitchen. ................................... 35 Figure 4: Sink at the washstation. ............................................................... 38 Figure 5: The Amber Flower’s steriliser. ...................................................... 39 Figure 6: A second washstation, ‘Grand Central Station.’ .......................... 40 Figure 7: The Baker's workstation. ............................................................... 45 Figure 8: The Sandwich Maker’s workstation. ............................................ 46 Figure 9: A bag of carrots at The Amber Flower. ......................................... 56 Figure 10: A pig bucket inside the pig bucket shed. ..................................... 57 Figure 11: The pig bucket shed. ....................................................................58 Figure 12: A rubbish bin at The Amber Flower. .......................................... 60 Figure 13: The skip bin. ................................................................................ 61 Figure 14: Results of lacking skilled knowledge. .......................................... 63 Figure 15: The main kitchen chiller. ............................................................ 64 Figure 16: The tight spaces and overflowing food in a freezer. ................... 66 Figure 17: Leftover food from a function being consumed by staff. ............ 68 Figure 18: The central workbenches and ‘free food’ area. ............................ 70 Figure 19: Coloured chopping boards to separate preparation spaces. ....... 81 Figure 20: Meat stored in the meat chiller. ................................................. 82 Figure 21: Pastry and meat in sausage rolls. ............................................... 94 Figure 22: Pastry storage in the chiller. ...................................................... 96 Figure 23: Dishes covered in plastic wrap. ................................................. 100 1 1. Appetiser: An introduction to food waste Over the course of creating this thesis I was told by many of the large amount of food waste in hospitality. Peers, those who work in the industry, and the local environmental educator from the Environmental Education for Resource Sustainability Trust, all expressed concern over how much food waste is generated by the industry. During my first meeting at the function centre where the research was conducted, the Executive Chef declared I would be ‘ruined’ and ‘disgusted’ by the amount of food waste. The picture presented was one where the pressures of cooking dishes and getting food to customers took precedence with minimising food waste a secondary concern. Everything that is not eaten becomes waste; off cuts, leftovers, excess production, packaging, peels, cores, all went into the rubbish bin without a second thought. Previous studies have sought to find methods to reduce and measure the amount of food waste produced and direct government policy attempts to control food waste (for example Mena, Terry, Williams, & Ellram 2014 consider the minimisation of food waste within the supply chain; Lebersorger & Schneider, 2014 compare food waste produced across food retailers; Eriksson, Strid, & Hansson, 2015 provide potential opportunities to reduce the carbon footprint of foods). Conversely, the physical sciences have sought means of using food waste by considering the efficient use of resources (for example Bashir & Manusamy, 2015 give a summary of food waste in biocomposites; Yin et al. 2014 reflect on the use of food waste to produce fatty acids; Lau, Pleissner, & Lin, 2014 consider optimal composition of food waste for reuse in creating food). However, a focus upon only visible waste and its environmental impact neglects the efforts which are made to minimise or avoid creating food waste. There are instead multiple entanglements of people, objects, places, and ideas. Where these interactions have been studied, such as households by Evans (2012a) and Farr-Wharton, Foth, and Choi (2014) or hospitals by Ofei, Holst, Rasmussen, and Mikkelsen (2014), and Goonan, Mirosa, and Spence (2014), the practices that result in food waste within catering has received relatively little attention, where practices are determined by a conceptual idea of how things should be organised (Shove & Pantzar, 2005). By looking at how waste is created at a function centre I seek to fill some of this 2 gap in knowledge by examining these practices which contribute to the creation of food waste. In doing so I seek to address the question ‘how is food waste created in a catering kitchen?’ What sparked the idea for investigating food waste in catering was reading the studies of household food waste by Evans (2011a; 2011b; 2012a; 2012b). Rather than accepting assumptions that households create food waste through a lack of understanding and effort, his work directly observed household practices and the reasoning behind them. Over the course of this thesis I will provide a step in a similar direction for catering with a focus upon how food waste is engaged with in the kitchen of a function centre. To achieve this I used participant observation at The Amber Flower1 in Palmerston North between December 2013 and March 2014. During this time I worked predominately in the kitchen as a kitchenhand where I could engage with and observe the creation of food waste and how food is diverted from becoming waste. The conceptual lens I apply to food waste is centred on Guattari and Deleuze’s (1988) assemblages. When a dish is created it is shaped by configuring various elements such as ingredients, time, heat, labour, and ideas in specific ways to create food that is desirable to consume. The combination of these elements then enable specific interactions to take place, producing the means of change within a dish and entangling it amongst practices, people, and places of catering. Drawing upon these features I present a dish as an assemblage. As an assemblage a dish can be considered as one of many interdependent concepts. As a dish moves within physical space it also shifts in conceptual space, changes occur within a dish, and in turn these changes reflect upon how a dish is dealt with by others. Assemblage theory is able to capture the multiple levels of change that occur regarding a dish and thus food waste. To look at the changes that occur in food I shall use the idea of ‘follow the thing’ as presented in Cook et al. (2004) and Cook and Harrison (2007). Following a thing presents a means to observe the interactions and points of change that occur as a thing moves between different places. 1 This name is a pseudonym to keep the selected function centre anonymous. 3 Applying this method to a dish involves following it from the initial moments of ingredients arriving in the kitchen to when the leftovers after a function return. For each point of change there are multiple potential outcomes for a dish, it could become waste, or pig feed, or be reused in another dish, or eaten by staff. The practices, people, and other foods present within the kitchen all influence which of these outcomes result. To aid in indentifying moments of change I will use Hetherington’s (2004) concept of conduits. Conduits are spaces where a dish may be placed to become something else. The meanings that are embedded within a food during the creation of a dish are able to be altered to those more suitable to the next part of its journey. Following dishes through The Amber Flower has revealed the diverse journeys which are available to food and the efforts that are in place at moments of change where food can become waste or something else. The creation of food waste at The Amber Flower will be presented through a metaphorical menu. Chapter Two will contain a recipe of the theoretical concepts used and the existing ideas within the literature around food, waste, and the intersection of the two. Then with the food prepared Chapter Three will be presented as an entrée to situate the research site. The main meal will explore the ethnographic data by presenting three options for the main course, Chapter Four to follow the journeys of vegetables to reveal available conduits and demonstrate journeys available for food in becoming waste or something else, Chapter Five to consider meat and changes to assemblages due to contamination, while baked goods in Chapter Six looks at aesthetic requirements. The penultimate chapter, ‘a selection of cheeses,’ will draw together all these journeys to reveal the conduits and pathways available to food becoming waste or something else and the entanglements involved in creating and avoiding food waste, with a final dessert to complete the menu. 4 2. A Recipe for Food Waste The central topic of this thesis is how food waste is created in catering. Exploration of this topic will be done by following food through the Amber Flower and considering moments of transition when food could become waste or be diverted into something else. Over the course of the thesis I will show how diverse elements of ideas, people, ingredients, and equipment are drawn together to create a dish and drive how these journeys take place. Every dish, each ingredient, all pieces of waste, and catering itself are shaped by a diverse range of interlinked individuals, places, times, and ideas of what constitutes them. The interactions of these elements together enable transitions as food moves through catering. To aid in understanding how these elements interact and influence waste creation in catering, this chapter will discuss the literature and concepts I use in terms of making a dish. To begin is the initial preparation of the work space by considering why food waste is worthy of study and significant features within the literature, particularly tracing the sustainability focus that food waste is assigned and the gap in considering practices within catering. Following this will be the ingredient list which defines each of the theoretical concepts I use to consider the creation of waste in catering. The first ingredients are the various aspects of food pertaining to how food moves within a catering kitchen, followed by the chosen definition of waste as a loss of value. The active theoretical ingredients are Deleuze and Guattari’s (1988) concept of assemblages to understand the nature of changes occurring within food that results in waste and Hetherington’s (2004) conduits as moments of transition where these changes take place. Lastly there will be the research method of participant observation as informed by Cook et al.’s (2004) ‘follow the thing’ as a means to cook and bind ingredients together. 2.1. Prep Work: Why food waste Before a meal can be provided the surfaces within the kitchen must first be prepared. To prepare the surfaces for creating the dishes for the menu I will initially consider why the creation of waste is a useful topic and what insights the literature offers. What makes food and waste easy to neglect is that they are both of the everyday and mundane. To sustain life requires constant engagement with food and waste making them inescapable parts of existence, but also objects worthy of study. Separately food and waste 5 have received much scholarly attention, but this has been predominately from a standpoint of sustainability with a focus upon measurement and statistics. Where new insights can be found are the relatively recent qualitative and ethnographic studies looking at how individuals handle food waste (Evans, Campbell, & Murcott, 2013: 5). Food is essential to the continued existence of human life as both a need for subsistence, an object of desire, and a mark of distinction. Production and consumption of food is a significant part of the livelihoods of individuals, communities, nations, and the continuation of economic systems. Globally, maintaining food production in-line with population growth is a challenge in the face of declining amounts of arable land. Options such as urbaculture (Balfour, 2010) and use of nanotechnologies (EC, 2014) are some of the many proposals which have been offered to increase the amount of food produced. Other studies in the sciences have sought ways to use food waste for conversion into energy (see Lei, He, Wei, He, & Peng, 2014; Yu, Karthikeyan, Selvam, & Wong, 2014; Yin, et al. 2014), or other products such as plastics (Bashir & Manusamy, 2015) and more food (Lau, Pleissner & Lin, 2014). For instance an Egyptian airline company produces 726 tonnes of organic waste annually, 42% is leftovers which could produce 2.5TJ of energy (El-Mobaidh, Taha, & Lasshen, 2006: 588-590). Reducing food waste also provides an opportunity for tackling issues of food sustainability and production. Due to the importance assigned to food and how it becomes waste the research will focus foremost on food waste. This is not to deny that other wastes that arise during the production of food is less important or non-existent, but instead to provide focus for the research (see Accorsi, Cascini, Cholette, & Manzini, 2014 and Reeves, 2010 for transport packaging between farm and food retailers; Hawkins, 2013 for physical engagements with food packaging; Edwards & Mercer, 2013 for the loss of productive resources). The amount of food that is wasted by the global food system is significant. During 2010 the amount of waste in the global food system was measured as thirty to forty percent of all food produced (Godfray et al., 2010: 816) There is 1.3 billion tonnes of food waste (FAO, 2011: 4), with a third of all food waste deemed to be avoidable (Schott & Andersson, 2015: 6 222). In New Zealand it is estimated that more than $2 billion of food is wasted annually (ZeroWaste New Zealand cited in Patterson, 2012). Furthermore the amount of food wasted is projected to increase as population and consumption patterns change faster than the infrastructure to accommodate them, particularly in the developing world (FAO, 2014: 50). In developed countries the amount of food waste is weighted toward consumption (FAO, 2011: 4). Studying food waste presents an opportunity to understand waste creation and secure more efficient use of food resources. Many discussions of food waste draw upon issues of environmental concern. Not only does food waste represent food that is no longer able to be consumed, but its decay produces methane gas which makes landfills the second greatest contributors to climate change after fossil fuel combustion (OFEE, 1998: 15), while water runoff from dumped food allows heavy metals to leech into waterways (Bulkeley & Askins, 2009: 252). Altogether the global food system generates one third of total greenhouse gas emissions (Pretty et al., 2010, cited in Watson and Meah, 2013: 105), while the social cost of food waste, factoring in deforestation, water loss, soil erosion, impact on biodiversity, health, and greenhouse gas emissions, US$1224.2 billion per year (FAO 2014: 7). These environmental issues create pressure for government policy to encourage more sustainable consumption, from backcasting presented by Pape and Davis (2012) which seeks to create a timeline of actions to achieve a desirable future, to the provision of information to help consumers use leftover food through WRAP’s (Waste and Resources Action Programme) Love Food, Hate Waste campaign. Noteworthy is the recent gain in France which has passed a law to stop supermarkets destroying unsold food, instead requiring that it journey to a charity or other place where its value can be realised. The central focus of national and international food waste statistics from an environmental sustainability viewpoint focuses on the global food chain. The global food chain represents a vast commodity network through which food is created, is processed, consumed, and expelled as waste. The network is formed by a diverse range of industries and organisations all working interdependently to produce and create food. Each organisation within the chain is interdependent with actions in one aspect impacting others (Gille, 2013: 39), but they each act individually and rarely recognise 7 the impact their actions have upon other organisations or the network as a whole (Dixon, Hattersley, & Isaacs, 2014). An exploration of this interdependency in the case of food waste in retail is described by Mena, Terry, Williams, and Ellram (2014). They seek to quantify the waste each component link in the food retail chain produces and note how efforts to reduce waste in one link impacts other links in the chain. In the case of fruits and vegetables they explored grading, storage and packing, and retail links, while for meat they looked into slaughtering, processing and packing, and retail (Mena et al. 2014: 148). Their findings suggest that each organisation within the chain adopts a different definition of waste and neglects recognising the impact minimising their waste has upon other organisations. An example is meat packaged during the cutting and processing stage. Packaging reduces waste as it prevents damage to the meat during transit to a packing plant, but it also creates waste when meat is damaged by removing it from this packaging to be re-bagged for sale. Thus for each organisation to ensure it can meet its demands and account for its own waste, it must request and stock more food, increasing the amount of unused food within the chain that could become waste (Mena, et al. 2014: 151-152). The linkages between organisations within the global food network provide a useful backdrop to consider the complexities of waste creation. Each link of the global food chain contains organisations and individuals that grow, sell, and transform food. To understand how waste is created at any given link in this chain requires studying how each incorporates practices which engage with food and waste. Lebersorger and Schneider’s (2014: 1915) study of Austrian food retail outlets found that only thirty percent of the variation of food waste could be explained by firm size and sales. Instead the creation of waste is dominated by food and waste practices within a firm. It is only through studying practices dealing with food and the factors which produce this engagement that the creation of waste may be understood (Farr-Wharton, Foth, & Choi, 2014: 399). This need to study the practices that result in food waste is again called for by Sonnino and McWilliam (2011) and Goonan, Mirosa, and Spence (2013: 68- 69), recognising that food waste is an outcome of multiple people and interests. 8 Studies that seek to discover how and why individuals create waste have been a recent development (Evans, Campbell, & Murcott, 2013: 5-6). One of the most prominent researchers in this area has been David Evans. His examination of United Kingdom households disputed the common assumption that household food waste is a result of lack of knowledge leading to an inability to deal with waste (Evans, 2011a). He argued that to focus upon knowledge alone assumes a household without the context of everyday life where there is always the ability to act according to food waste ‘best practice.’ Instead lives are messy and can create circumstances in which knowledge exists but to act upon it requires sacrifices or actions in other parts of life which are unacceptable for the households involved. The desire to create more sustainable lifestyles exists, but it is still in development and rarely drives household practices (Evans, 2011b; 114). Desires of households to maintain family welfare, eat healthily, and consume sustainably and ethically all overlap with sustainable food practices, but these desires can also produce conflicts resulting in more food waste (Evans, 2011b). An example presented by Evans (2011b; 112-113) is the intersection of healthy eating and environmental sustainability, where healthy practices such as cycling can also be good for sustainability; but conversely the desire to always eat fresh and organic food can result in creating food waste if it is not used before it decays. Conduits which were found to be used in Evans’ (2012b) research involve gifting, handing down, binning, and compost, of which the rubbish bin is deemed culturally to be the appropriate conduit for food waste. Journeys of food that do not lead to becoming waste such as through a rubbish bin require other conduits to be present to enable food to become something else. However, these conduits can be less consistently available and often require effort and space that may not always be available (Evans, 2012b; 1134), such as separate bins for plastic, glass, food, and general waste, each bin takes up physical space and requires effort to sort items into these categories. Furthermore the time needed for food to become disconnected from its previous meaning in becoming a dish for another can interact negatively with food’s short lifespan (Evans, 2012b; 1134). The easy option is thus for food waste to be placed into a rubbish bin where it becomes waste rather than into conduits leading to food becoming something else. Household food practices intersect with multiple social and economic imperatives, so wasting is not simply determined by what 9 happens within the space of the home. Cook et al. (2004: 660-661) provide an example of papaya which is purchased with the intention to consume, but due to habits and busy lives, the opportunity to eat it does not arise causing it to become waste. The formation of habitual purchasing together with messy lives shape individual actions toward food and waste and these contribute more to creating waste than the knowledge and attitudes members of a household may profess (Farr-Wharton, Foth, and Choi, 2014). Evans (2012a: 53) put it well in saying that “… the passage of ‘food’ into ‘waste’ occurs as a consequence of households enacting ordinary domestic practices and negotiating the contingencies of everyday life.” Research into food waste practices in catering is also relatively recent and sparse, with Sonnino and McWilliam (2011: 823) noting a gap in the literature which considers food waste at different stages in the global food chain. Studies of food waste in catering have begun in hospitals where approximately two thirds of all food produced is wasted (Sonnino and McWilliam, 2011: 826). Most of this food waste occurs in the form of leftovers on the trolley after meal times due to incorrect forecasting of the number of meals needed (Goonan, Mirosa, & Spence, 2013: 68). This results as a catering firm needs to be able to supply enough meals for all patients at a hospital and provide these in standardised portion sizes. Similar to a household however, the lives of those at a hospital and its operation are messy; the number of patients can fluctuate, some patients may desire smaller portion sizes, or parts of the meal are considered by patients to be unappetising. However, as with households, the wellbeing of patients is valued above minimising food waste (Ofei, Holst, Rasmussen, & Mikkelsen, 2014: 53). The result is that production of food waste is considered inevitable by those working in the industry (Goonan, Mirosa, & Spence, 2013: 67; Ofei, et al. 2014: 53). Where opportunities for food waste minimisation exist is in the practices, in the day to day dealings of multiple people between creating and serving food (Goonan, Mirosa, & Spence, 2013: 68-69; Liwei, et al., 2013: 352). In the kitchen knowledge of, and conforming to, suitable portion sizes, improved predications of the number of meals needed each day, and how serving staff deliver food (Ofei, et al., 2014), all influence the amount of food waste created. Catering for hospitals provides similar concepts that are evident for catering firms, such as the need to operate foremost for customers and profit with waste minimisation a secondary concern. However the bulk standardised meals 10 that are served at a hospital require different practices to catering for numerous small functions, each of which can differ significantly. Other studies of food waste based in China consider the need to feed an increasing urban population while minimising the amount of food becoming waste (Liwei, et al., 2013; Guo, Sun, Sun, Lu, & Wu, 2014). To give an idea of the amount of food waste considered there is an estimated 1184.5 tonnes produced daily in Hangzhou alone (Guo, et al., 2014: 794). Liwei et al. (2013: 352) develops a picture of catering food waste in China as one with numerous interactions between places, people, and ideas; the focus upon only consumers or producers will not achieve a reduction in food waste due to the presence of interdependencies Liwei et al. (2013: 341). There has been no research on food waste in the catering industry conducted in New Zealand that I discovered over the course of the research. Thus this thesis will address food practices in a catering kitchen which supplies food for weddings, social gatherings, lunches, and dinners within New Zealand. As catering is a part of hospitality the research draws upon knowledge developed by restaurant ethnographies. Food in catering and waste at the first and last moments is engaged with in a kitchen by kitchen staff. The result is that food and waste practices in a catering kitchen present similar pressures to those at restaurant kitchens. Temporal and spatial constraints exist in both catering and restaurants that shape the means of discourse (Demetry, 2013) and perspectives of staff compared to diners (Gaytán, 2008). Creating and serving food is the focus for any firm operating in hospitality and a part of this is ensuring food is authentic and unique to establish and maintain a firm’s reputation (Leschziner, 2007). To do this effectively requires cooperation and an awareness of the other roles between kitchen and serving, those in the kitchen, and functions falling under future shifts (Fine, 1996: 36-38). The difference between a restaurant and a catering firm arises in the mobility of food. Food requires mobility as it is consumed in places that are distant from where it is prepared. These moments of mobility present additional challenges in engaging with food and waste which are not present at a restaurant serving only onsite consumers. 11 The literature indicates that food waste is created by the interaction of diverse elements and decisions of the many elements both large and small within the global food chain. Understanding how and why waste is created however requires going into the firms that make up these links and directly observing their waste practices. Recent studies have provided such information for households, but a gap exists in the literature regarding the creation of waste in catering. To consider the practices present in a catering kitchen first involves consideration of how food and waste are defined. Here I argue the main form food takes is as a dish that exists as an assemblage and the interactions which lead to the creation of waste are derived from entanglements with people, places, objects, and ideas. 2.2. Ingredients: Defining concepts With the work space prepared by considering why food waste is a valid topic of study, the next part of creating the menu is to gather ingredients. These ingredients combine together to give shape and coherency to the dish by forming its parts and the components on which analysis can take place. Thus this section expands on the ideas that inform my understanding of waste creation and considers how they have been used in the literature. The first ingredients to be discussed are the central components of food and waste as it is their movements within catering I follow in the ethnography. Next will be an examination of conduits as spaces which enable food to transition between different meanings and values, followed by an introduction to the concept of assemblages as the theoretical idea of how food interacts within other components within and outside The Amber Flower. Completing this section will be a mixing of all these ingredients ready to cook the final dish. 2.2.1. 150 Grams of Food To follow how food moves in the catering kitchen first requires an awareness of the different stages in preparing and consuming food. Thus food and its use in shaping a meal is the first ingredient for this menu. For any catering firm, food is its lifeblood. Without the constant movement of food, from acquiring new ingredients to creating dishes for sale, there is no profit and hence no firm. As food is moved, it is disassembled as parts are removed during preparing and cooking, time may cause decay to leave parts behind, and not all of a dish may be served or eaten. These remaining parts 12 form an aspect of food movements through the catering kitchen. By defining the forms food takes relevant to the catering kitchen, it will shape the bounds of the analysis. The literature defines food as dependent upon the practices involved in engaging with it, for food this is the act of eating (Roe, 2006: 112; Carolan, 2011). There needs to be a material form that is acceptable for consumption. However objects deemed fit for eating are filtered by prevailing cultural and social lenses regardless of edibility or nutrition (Wills, Backett-Milburn, Roberts, & Lawton, 2011: 727-728). Different material compositions can produce different ideas of edibility. An example of this difference can be found in Gewertz and Herrington’s (2010) study of mutton and lamb flaps in the Pacific Islands. These pieces of meat are sources of protein, but they also contain a high proportion of fat. The high fat content means mutton and lamb flaps are not seen as fit for human consumption in developed nations and in some cases not even fit for dogs (Gewertz and Herrington, 2010: 36). In the Pacific Islands, the consumption of mutton and lamb flaps is a sign of wealth and they serve an important role in ceremony and maintaining relationships. The idea of what food is thus stretches beyond nutrition into the realm of ideas. To eat is an act of forming identity (Probyn, 2000), partaking of imagined geographies (May, 1996: 57), and creating bonds between people and places (Moisio, Arnould, & Price, 2004; Longhurst, Johnston, & Ho 2009). It is thus necessary to break down food into the components that are relevant to producing food at the catering kitchen to facilitate discussion and ensure clarity. When catering produces food to be consumed, be it a fruit platter, seafood salad, or mince pie, diverse ingredients must first be made into a single whole. Ingredients are objects that are combined with other ingredients in specific ways to create a dish. Ingredients may be inedible alone as they may be dry or have an unpleasant taste such as flour and baking soda, or they could include items such as taro which is poisonous unless cooked. By combining these ingredients with others they can become part of a dish that is edible and tasty. Take apple pie as an example. Among the ingredients for an apple pie are apples and flour. Apples are commonly consumed independently, but to make them suitable for an apple pie they need to be cored, chopped, and stewed to become a filling. Flour however is not eaten alone, but it can be made into an edible 13 pastry by mixing it with butter, eggs, and sugar. By creating an apple pie, the apple and flour no longer exist independently but become two inputs which create an apple pie. The process of creating a dish extracts the inedible and unsuitable components of ingredients to enable their designation as food in their own right (Coles & Hallet 2013: 161). Food which catering provides to consumers comes in the form of dishes. For the purpose of this thesis, a dish will refer to any instance where ingredients are combined together in a specific manner to create a cohesive, edible whole. The use of ‘dish’ thus allows a general term for referring to a stage of food as something to be presented for consumption, although used this way the term includes a diverse range of different foods such as chicken masala curry, carrot cakes, and sandwiches. The whole as a dish then leaves the kitchen to be presented to customers. There is however more than only combining ingredients together. Continuing with the apple pie example, it includes more than only ingredients that are combined together via baking. Apples, sugar, flour, butter, time, knowledge, labour, and heat are all drawn together. The final dish is then created by combining these factors through cooking which draws upon ideas and rules for shaping what counts as food (Bell & Valentine, 1997: 49). A function is an event where a collection of dishes is supplied by a catering firm as a dining experience. A dining experience in this way can take the form of a full formal meal where customers are seated and supplied with multiple courses. Examples include corporate dinners or weddings. For these dining experiences, what food is served must match a carefully structured set of cultural rules pertaining to how a meal is constructed (Douglas & Nicod, 1974). To fail to meet these requirements is to undermine the significance of the occasion and present a dining experience that does not meet the expectations of guests. Dishes in formal functions are usually tied intimately to the occasion and are expected to support the theme or occasion. Alternatively, a dining experience can be a very informal affair, with the focus being on gathering socially. The food provided may involve an afternoon tea or takeaways such as pizza may be served. For these informal dining experiences food is a facilitator which promotes but is secondary to social interaction. Regardless of the style of function however, all dishes provided must complement and support each other. 14 The movement of ingredients and dishes through catering is an essential attribute for a catering firm. Without ingredients entering the kitchen to be made into dishes, no food can be produced and without the creation of dishes no functions can be supplied. As food moves between these stages there are opportunities for creating waste, which is the next ingredient in this recipe. 2.2.2. One Heaped Cup of Waste The next ingredient in the recipe is the waste. Combining waste with food will create a base to add the active and binding ingredients to enable analysis. Previous assumptions about waste in the literature have focused upon leftovers by consumers, but Evans, et al.(2013: 7) problematise this as it neglects other points where waste can be created. It is this rarely seen and acknowledged waste which is created before food passes onto consumers which makes looking into waste practices in catering important. Each decision regarding food, such as where it is placed, what ingredients are used, and how it is made, contribute to the creation of waste. In exploring this conceptualisation of waste I will first consider the elements that contribute to defining waste, followed by a discussion of how changes in the value of food as it moves throughout catering can create waste. Much as creating food is the result of individuals interacting with objects in particular ways, so is waste created. Waste is created through placement of objects (Hetherington, 2004: 159), thus the designation of food as waste is an active assignment by individuals (Douglas, 1978: Hetherington, 2004). When waste is created it is the result of engaging with food in such a way as to create a perceived loss of value, given the piece of food’s current context (Coles & Hallet, 2013: 162). To elaborate upon this distinction between value and waste, value is proposed by Hetherington (2004: 169) to be the ‘soul’ of an object. Without the assignment of value in some form, an object lacks purpose and is no longer worth keeping. This lack of purpose is what results in objects becoming waste. As an object loses value it also loses its identity and how it is perceived, so that as value is lost an object moves toward becoming waste. For Hetherington (2004) placement is a central feature for an object to become waste and these placements will be explored further in section 2.2.3. Creating waste is an assessment of when food crosses a culturally defined margin that separates what is worth keeping from what is not (Watson & Meah, cited in Coles & 15 Hallet, 2013: 157). Thus creating waste is not an instance where there is no value, but rather one where how value is assigned is central (O’Brien, 2013: 195). With the creation of waste centred on loss of value, it is necessary to consider how value is assigned. The idea of what is or is not valuable is subjective and varies across individuals, times, and spaces, so rather than a set, precise definition, the creation of value will be considered in terms of regimes of value. Regimes of value represent a set of conventions that are shaped by cultural frameworks (Appadurai, 1986: 14-15). These frameworks provide reasons for individuals to decide what is or is not valuable. The conventions that form value proposed by Boltanski and Thévenot (1999, cited in Evans, 2011b: 110-111) are market, civic, domestic, opinion, inspired, and industrial, with Evans (2011b) adding environment to the list. Each of these conventions represents a different set of perceived circumstances, and hence assignment of value. Each convention provides a way to create value in food. Civic conventions derive value from supporting the collective interest, such as the provision of food to homeless or connecting places through interdependent trade networks (Simons, 2010). Domestic conventions use the development of personal ties to assign value, for food this would include its use to create and maintain familial bonds (Bell & Valentine, 1997: 65; Johnston & Longhurst, 2012), link to the past through memory (Longhurst, Johnston, & Ho, 2009), or for catering food as a means of facilitating socialising. Opinion involves value which is assigned by means of enhancing how an individual is perceived by others (Bauman, 2003, cited in Stebbins, 2009: 7). Inspired conventions give value to food in its ability to express creativity and uniqueness (as presented by Tuan, 1989 and Stebbins, 2009), as a form of political expression (see Edwards & Mercer, 2013), or a way for chefs to show their skill and creativity (Fine, 1996: 2021). Industrial conventions represent value through productivity and efficiency, such as the ability to generate energy to power appliances from leftover food (O’Brien, 2013) or producing dishes as quickly as possible. Environmental conventions involve value generated through the care and protection of the natural world, such as recycling so to reduce landfill and global warming. Finally there is market value, for which as catering is a business first this convention tends to be the most significant way of 16 assigning value. The market convention assigns value through consumer demand, potential revenue, and the costs of acquisition and transport; factors that ensure food continues to be sold at a catering firm. Due to The Amber Flower’s need to generate a profit the market and industrial conventions are anticipated to be the most significant in avoiding the creation of waste. As staff members are those who create food and waste, there may be some environmental conventions that develop regarding their own views. The value of a piece of food is derived from the amount of profit it can generate. Beyond these conventions as stances to assign value, simple physical necessity also influences designation of value to food. Examples are the human lifecycle as young children place high value upon energy rich foods which dissipates with age (Yeomans, 2006), how hungry one happens to be at the time (Meiselman, 2006), whether the food matches the environment it is presented in (Meiselman, 2006: 186), or the amount of nutrition food can provide. The circumstance in which food is presented is thus important for how and why value is assigned. All of these have the potential to contribute to what counts as value in food. Every customer of catering assigns value according to their own, potentially unshared, conventions and these need not remain constant over time. What matters is that value is assigned and there is a framework for its expression and for its loss. Over the course of the thesis I will refer to value predominately as expressed through taste, nutrients, or aesthetics, with a bent toward how these are influenced by exchange value in the market. The potential creation of waste occurs at specific moments in a food’s journey where it exists in a liminal state between value and non- value. Tension is created between how value is assigned and the circumstances where this value cannot be realised (Hetherington, 2004: 162). An example from Evans (2012b: 1130) is a container of rice left in the fridge that is not intended for future use, but keeping it there is due to an aversion toward wasting ‘good food.’ The fridge becomes a space where the rice is left to go hard and dry, allowing value to dissipate until it is no longer ‘good food’ and can be thrown away without concern. The fridge in this example acts as a space where value and non-value can be negotiated and the tension removed. Thus the fridge provides a space of rest before the continuation of a journey. Placement in spaces of transition allows these 17 identities of value and non-value to be reconciled (Evans, 2011a). When the assigned value becomes less than what a dish is worth to keep, its time in the liminal space has resulted in its becoming waste. What these liminal spaces are however constitute the next ingredient in the dish of food waste. 2.2.3. Three Lightly Beaten Conduits The next ingredient to be added ensures that the food is malleable by allowing movement between food and waste while paving the way for the active ingredient. For this menu it is Hetherington’s (2004) idea of conduits which will be placed in the context of how food moves through The Amber Flower as a journey. These will later be applied under Cook et al.’s (2004) ‘follow the thing’ for the ethnographic method. Together the concepts of conduits and journeys draw attention to the trajectories of food through catering and emphasise the moments of transition into waste or something else. A journey is the movement of food through stages of catering as ingredients are delivered, made into dishes, sent to consumers, and returned. Conduits are often spaces of rest that allow passage between stages by renegotiating assigned meanings. Conduits exist as doorways that enable passage between different stages of a food’s journey and allow food to journey to new interactions (Hetherington, 2004). Conduits are generally established places that are assigned the role of allowing a change between valuable objects and waste to occur. By existing within the gap between stages of a journey, objects in conduits can have their previous connections severed by becoming something new (Hetherington, 2004: 169). The most common example of a conduit is a rubbish bin. When food is placed in a rubbish bin its journey as a valuable, edible object for consumption begins to close as it rests until its remaining value dissipates. Once this has occurred, preparations for a new journey can begin as food enters the next stage of its journey to landfill. When food is placed in a conduit which leads to landfill, the food’s value is allowed to dissipate so as to no longer hold value (Douglas, 1978: 96). Alternative conduits not associated with journeys into waste are still moments of transition between stages in a journey. A rubbish bin allows journeys to landfill, alternative conduits allow diversion into journeys to places where different material and social circumstances can prevail and value can be realised in a different form (Coles & Hallet, 2013: 167). For 18 example the conduit of a compost heap is where the value of food for human consumption dissipates, but a new stage in a journey is presented in becoming suitable for plant consumption. Other examples include recycling food into energy, donating to food banks, or reusing leftovers in a new dish. These conduits enable journeys where value which would be lost can be realised within a new set of circumstances (O’Brien, 2013: 196-7). The contribution the idea of conduits makes in following journeys of food and the creation of waste in catering is that they enable changes in the value of a piece of food. Through providing a gap in a journey, conduits enable the removal of unwanted meanings within one set of circumstances, such as associations with the past, the self, and its use, to be lost while preparing it for the next stage in its journey (Munro, 2013). An example is glass jars. A glass jar may have been used in the past to hold blueberry jam. However cleaning a jar in soapy water followed by placement in an oven at 120 degrees Celsius for twenty minutes sterilises it for new uses. The placement in an oven to sterilise a jar removes its associations as a container for blueberry jam and opens up future journeys. These journeys may include the option to go into recycling and become part of a mass of glass which can be shaped into completely new forms, reused in becoming a pot for a plant, or refilled with blueberry jam. The oven here acts as a conduit enabling this break to take place. Over the course of this thesis I will reveal what some of these conduits are and the journeys they enable for food in catering to become waste or something else. Conduits as a means of advancing food journeys are not passive. Within a place there is a hierarchy of conduits representing different perceptions of value (Gregson, Metcalfe, & Crewe, 2007). For food this difference can be seen in conduits used in catering firms compared to those in a household. Leftover roast chicken can be remade into a chicken stir-fry at home, but due to food health and safety regulations this ability to reuse chicken in catering is not available and a rubbish bin is more likely to be used. However as Metcalfe, et al. (2013) show the availability of a conduit itself influences food and waste practices. Their research involved studying the behaviours of households when presented with food bins into which food scraps could be placed to be taken by local councils. They found that the presence of a food bin is enough to encourage its use to occur, even amongst the households most reluctant to make efforts regarding food 19 waste. Conduits provide a means of distributing, politicising, and representing food journeys toward, or away from, waste (Hawkins, 2009; Gregson, Watkins, & Calestani, 2010). Deciding on what conduit food should be placed in is not a simple decision, but rather one that requires thought and intention on the part of those engaging with food journeys (Cappallini & Parsons, 2013: 123). Placement requires the ability to classify, evaluate, and assign priorities between conduits given the objects and circumstances in which they exist (Parsons, 2008). Attempting to place food into inappropriate conduits is akin to waste. Thus knowledge of the availability and restrictions of conduits is necessary for ensuring they enable journeys that divert food from waste streams (Gregson et al., 2007). An example is recycling plastic honey pots. To maintain high quality, recycled plastic each honey pot must first be cleaned. To neglect to do so leaves residual honey which introduces impurities into the batch of recycled plastic, reducing its quality and the price that it can be sold at. Additionally the honey can spread onto other plastic items, potentially making the entire batch unusable. Within hospitality these rules and restrictions are much more extensive to ensure the protection of public health (Food Act 1981: 59). Use of inappropriate conduits has the potential to lead to mass illness. Thus to guide food through appropriate conduits requires knowledge of the food’s material attributes, spaces which are conducive to them, and what conduits are available. Throughout a journey the relationship between internal components of food and its external circumstances can change. Plastic packaging is not suitable for composting for instance, yet without a potential market for the recycled plastic the effort of recycling plastic is not worthwhile. Different conduits present different journeys available for food and create different engagements between people, places, and other food throughout the process. All these interactions of people, objects, places, and ideas contribute to creating the assemblage of a dish. 20 2.2.4. Two Cups of Sieved Assemblages Combining food and waste creates the base food in this menu by forming the central components for analysis. When these are combined with conduits and journeys, dynamic movement and change between states is made accessible to reveal practices and engagements. To develop the menu items into a coherent whole, there needs to be an active ingredient to facilitate discussion. For this I use Deleuze and Guattari’s (1988) idea of assemblages to provide a means to join food, waste, and conduits. The form of assemblage theory I am using is outlined in Anderson and McFarlane (2011: 124-125) which is centred on concepts and the combination of heterogeneous elements to produce a whole. As outlined in defining food, a dish exists as both a physical object and as an abstract idea, with a dish created by combining these ideas, rules of cooking, and ingredients to form a single whole. The intention is to use these ideas to focus upon how a dish is made and how waste emerges from it. I argue that each dish is an assemblage bound by a set of ideas and engagements that draw and hold together diverse elements. As dishes journey throughout catering they become entangled with people, places, ideas, and objects which produce internal changes. These entanglements are relationships of assemblages with each other that arise during food journeys, such as the relationship between dishes in a meal or between people’s engagement with a dish. An outcome of entanglements is that they can alter the components of a dish assemblage by creating new internal relationships or introducing new components. These interactions encourage particular changes to take within dishes and will move them closer to moments of transition where a dish may become waste or something else. This section will expand upon why this is a useful way of considering food and waste, and how it will be used to frame the analysis. An assemblage consists of a set of relationships that are created by drawing together a diverse range of heterogeneous elements, both human and non-human, with ideas (Swanton, 2013: 286). Each assemblage is kept distinct from others by a constructed boundary to separate it from other assemblages and give it coherency. The boundary both creates and is created by the practices and the relations which are adopted between components within the assemblage and external to it. Where this boundary is the meanings assigned to an assemblage, it is the idea of what makes a 21 given assemblage. Using shark fin soup as an example, the assignment of the soup as a delicacy and suitable for human consumption encourages its consumption and in turn inspires the label of a delicacy. The dish is defined by the contents of a bowl and how the textures and tastes of shark fin, chicken broth, and mushrooms combine, but as a food it is shaped by ideas of providing sexual potency and appetite enhancement, or for others as a symbol of cruelty, and as discussed in the section on food the act of eating. Words and actions create an assemblage to be engaged with and these interactions create assemblages to speak of and act upon. The feature of assemblages which make the theory suitable for viewing the creation of waste is ‘becoming’ which is also drawn from Deleuze and Guattari (1988). The term becoming indicates a conceptual shift of assemblages toward each another. This shift can represent both the internal, emergent changes and external impacts that result in food becoming waste. The existence of the boundaries between assemblages enables movement across and within them, with the possibility of crossing exceeding and solidifying these bounds (Goodman & Sage, 2014). Deleuze and Guattari (1988) discuss becoming from a human perspective. Thus a human becoming potato may involve a person adopting a stationary existence without thought or movement, with a human only growing outward, much like a couch potato. Then for a human becoming potato this includes a similar movement in a potato becoming human (Deleuze and Guattari, 1988: 290). The idea of becomings as possible in non-human assemblages is the aspect I draw on in food becoming waste. For this thesis rather than a human becoming potato, it is the becoming of a potato into something else. In the case of food this becoming arises by practices of people within the catering kitchen and where food is placed. For instance a potato salad moves toward becoming waste as each ingredient alters due to internal and external changes arising from how it is treated. A potato salad left in the sun will lose value faster than one placed in a fridge, while one made with onion will have chemical reactions that break apart other ingredients more quickly. Placement within a rubbish bin allows a conceptual shift toward becoming waste, whereas placement within a bucket for pig feed represents a shift from human food into becoming pig feed. It is these pathways of the becoming of nonhuman objects that is most useful for the discussion of waste. For food to become waste it can be a literal process as a potato is assigned traits of waste through how it is 22 engaged with. My understanding of the process of creating waste is based upon this idea of becoming, that creating waste is derived from the movement of dishes toward becoming waste. Becoming for food and waste involves changes of value from aspects within an assemblage and practices and ideas imposed from outside can act as catalysts in food becoming food. The internal configurations of a dish shifting toward creating something new, and the means of external handling which result in engaging with an object differently can impact the speed of food becoming waste. These shifts include those derived from physical changes such as the formation of mould upon cheese or perceived changes of a bottle of milk exceeding its best before date. Each of these instances is a case of these items becoming waste. The rate of becoming for food to waste or something else can differ between different actors and placements, as for instance one person may consider mouldy cheese inedible and suitable only to be thrown away, while another cuts away the mould, or placing milk in the fridge delays the rate of curdling. For these instances the changes are emergent from changes that occur internally within food. Unnoticeable shifts at the micro scale also drive food onwards through its journey. However it is this process of change and how the change is dealt with which informs the creation of waste. As changes occur within an assemblage, these drive the continuing journeys of food. Even when placed in the fridge or freezer and neglected, these changes continue to occur from within food. Food inherently breaks apart and decays in the process of becoming waste. For each journey however, an assemblage never becomes entirely disconnected from what it was, nor becomes entirely what it is moving towards. For a hamburger becoming waste, the lettuce may get droopy, the onions soft, and the bun stale, as these ingredients move toward waste. However even as this hamburger passes from something deemed suitable for human consumption toward waste, the knowledge of its inherent hamburger-ness and the value this held is retained as a reminder of what it once was before it passes to landfill entirely (Edensor, 2005). The hamburger and the ingredients that make it up do not end, only the ways they are engaged with at different points in its journey. The hamburger does not become waste completely while there is some remnant of value, even if this value is one which exists only in the mind as guilt or regret (Hetherington, 2004: 170). 23 Similarly the ingredients of the hamburger become waste together but at different rates, each according to its original form. These different interactions allow for different relationships between assemblages to develop (Gille, 2013: 29). Foods advance constantly toward becoming waste. Meat decays, fruit rots, and baked goods go stale; although how food is engaged with can change the rate at which food moves toward waste, such as putting food in the fridge or having food canned and vacuum sealed. The causes of these movements emerge from each piece of food in the form of tiny changes such as cells losing or gaining water and molecules breaking apart and recombining. As such, food becoming waste is an emergent feature that arises from the internal configurations of its components changing from within, externally imposed relations for each dish such as ideas of what it should be and regulations impacting practices, and interactions between different people, other dishes, and objects which share space with food. For this thesis it is interactions that are reflected through changes within dishes as assemblages and how the boundaries of food and waste are assigned which are to be highlighted. 2.2.5. Mixing Ingredients: Shaping the analysis Creating the dishes for this menu requires each of the ingredients to be mixed together to produce a coherent whole. Thus the concepts of food, waste, conduits and journeys, and assemblages I have discussed above shall be combined to enable analysis of waste creation in catering. Food, waste, conduits, and assemblages together provide the lens through which the ethnographic data gathered is analysed. The creation of every dish involves explicit efforts by people engaged with food to combine diverse elements into an assemblage. Making a banana loaf involves taking bananas and walnuts and reconfiguring them with other ingredients. Bananas and walnuts initially exist as separate and independent ingredients protected by tough outer layers. Combining them into a loaf means they no longer have this independent existence; instead their flavours interact to produce a combination of tastes neither can generate alone. Over the course of a dishes’ journey it accumulates small changes. These are produced over time and can be influenced by the places, 24 practices, and other objects which share a kitchen space. A banana loaf goes stale over time as starch crystallises, or it could be placed in a toaster to become warm and crusty, or if put next to cut onions, it can absorb their flavour. Each of these changes leads to an alteration of a banana loaf as an assemblage, but they need not create waste. When it is desirable for food to become something else, be it waste by placement into a rubbish bin, garden nutrients by journeying into a compost heap, or food for someone else to consume via donation, it can be placed into a conduit where this transition can occur. Each conduit exists as a point where an assemblage can undergo a change of value to pass into the next stage of its journey, be it a dissipation of existing value into waste or adoption of value for something else. Examples for a banana loaf is being put into the rubbish bin, being made into a bread and butter pudding, or going into the compost. Each case represents a banana loaf assemblage becoming something else; waste, another dish, or worm food. These conduits however require food to be placed within them by individuals, thus they represent a moment of decision and engagement with food that can lead to the creation of waste. My intention is to follow food journeys which involve the creation of waste. To this end I argue each dish is an assemblage and the changes that occur over the course of its journeys provide insight how waste is created. Thus I will follow food as it journeys through The Amber Flower and consider the changes which occur. Doing so will reveal the factors that cause food to become waste or something else. 2.3. Cooking: Method of data gathering Once all the ingredients have been combined into a coherent whole the ingredients must be bound together to create the reactions that produce a dish. To derive the data the technique chosen was participant observation, underpinned by Cook et al.’s (2004) ‘follow the thing’ method to observe journeys of food waste through the catering kitchen. By following food as it journeys through the kitchen of The Amber Flower it is possible to see the outcome of changes that occur within food and the external influences which result in creating waste in the catering kitchen. Together the internal and external interactions determine how assigned value changes throughout journey, from ingredients to food to waste. This section first presents the method of participant observation, then the site and enactment of the method. 25 2.3.1. Preheating the oven: Participant observation The technique I deemed most suitable to explore waste creation in catering was participant observation. Participant observation grants the opportunity to go onto a research site to observe and participate directly in what is occurring. Immersion in the site enables the researcher to perceive the entanglements between people, objects, and places which are not easily visible by research techniques which have been performed thus far in the food waste literature. The moments of transition and journeys which are invisible when looking in from the outside are necessary to understand practices (O’Connor, 2013). Participant observation allows data to emerge, revealing relevant details that may not have been obvious at the outset of the study (Stuckey, et al., 2014; Rosaldo, 1989: 19). The researcher interprets meaning by sharing in the context of the site while taking into account their own perspectives (Clifford, 1983). By creating rich descriptions of food journeys and the context in which they occur, multiple elements of the catering kitchen can be considered; using both what is reported by staff members and what is seen by the researcher. Greater insight into the elements that make up each dish assemblage and the changes which develop over the course of their journeys are made possible through participant observation. The strength of participant observation is that it involves the researcher stepping into the site to partake in and observe the everyday lives of participants. Not only does it capture the mundane which can be overshadowed by extreme or unusual events (Walford, 2009: 273), but it also encourages a holistic view of the many interactions that take place (Evered & Louis, 2001). Thus participant observation gives visibility to the everyday occurrences and the entanglements between people, places, objects, and ideas (Cook et al., 2004: 662). Revealing these entanglements grants visibility to the moments of transition which occur for food journeying through The Amber Flower and the influences which create changes within a dish. Participant observation embraces the messiness of reality by granting insight into the full context which generates how individuals and objects interact (Iacono, Brown, & Holtham, 2009: 44). There will always be biases and errors of memory and recording that enter into the data, but for an exploratory study of practices where waste is 26 created a glimpse can be provided into the practices of The Amber Flower’s staff in creating food and waste. The Amber Flower interacts with food and waste everyday it is in the business of hospitality. The result is that engagements with food are mundane and ordinary, making them difficult to express to those beyond the kitchen’s walls. Looking at statistical data has revealed that everyday practices are important, but they cannot easily be discovered using statistical methods (Lebersorger & Schneider, 2014). To gain information about practices requires in-depth study to explore what occurs on the ground. Interviews have been successful at extracting information on practices, but Stuckey, et al. (2014) find discrepancies are more likely to arise between interview information and participant observation data when the potential for guilt exists. As catering is presented as a wasteful industry, and individuals within The Amber Flower believe themselves to produce a lot of waste, there is the potential for such discrepancies to arise. Participant observation of actual behaviours regarding the creation of food waste reduces these discrepancies and allows for knowledge to be gleaned with a less idealised image of a participant’s own activities. Examples of studies that have successfully used participant observation to glean insights into food geographies include Evans (2011a; 2011b; 2012a; 2012b) looking at households food waste practices; Fine (1996) providing insight into practices of commercial kitchens in America; Baker (2013) engaged with pig farmers to reveal the level of care and attention required to raise pigs for slaughter; and Tibbals’ (2008) observation of waitresses using normalised gender roles to assert individuality. Participant observation has also been undertaken with regard to food provision for hospitals (see Ofei, Holst, Rasmussen, & Mikkelsen, 2014; Goonan, Mirosa, & Spence, 2014). To gather data during participant observation the focus was to ‘follow the thing’ as proposed by Cook et al. (2004). The process of following a thing so the fragmentary, multiple, and contradictory systems of which it is part can be narrated, which provides space for readers to develop their own knowledge of these systems (Cook & Crang, 1996: 41 cited in Cook et al., 2004: 642). Data I present in this thesis seeks to provide a set of narratives by following food as it is made in a dish, consumed, and 27 becomes waste as in a catering kitchen at The Amber Flower. The narratives I chose to follow are centred on three significant types of food provided in catering, vegetables, meat, and baked goods as each serve different roles in a dining experience and they represent different food and waste practices. The journeys presented within these food types were those that indicated cases of food becoming waste, or efforts where food was diverted from becoming waste. Food’s entanglement with people, other objects, ideas, and the place where it is engaged with all have a role in creating waste. Following food presents a way of focusing upon the journeys necessary to observe the changes that result in the creation of waste. 2.3.2. Heating food: The research site The research site selected for this thesis was a single catering firm that will be described in greater detail in Chapter Three. A single research site was deemed most suitable to prevent the need to learn the organisational structures of multiple firms, while remaining within the time constraints of a Masters thesis. The ability to generalise is thus restricted, but as the research seeks to explore practices in waste creation generalisation is not the main goal. The research was subject to ethical review in the School of People, Environment, and Planning and a low risk ethics application was submitted to the Massey University Human Ethics Office. The observation period took place between December 4th 2013 and March 28th 2014. A long observation period has the benefit of allowing the researcher to become embedded and accepted within an organisation, ideally putting participants at ease and reducing feelings of scrutiny (Brockmann, 2011: 235). I openly entered The Amber Flower as a researcher and during this period I worked as a part time kitchenhand attending two or three shifts each week. My tasks involved cleaning plates, crockery, and kitchen equipment, preparing food, cleaning the kitchen, and some food delivery. As a kitchenhand I was well positioned to observe and engage in activities occurring at all moments of food flows, from the preparation of ingredients to the return of leftovers. The shifts I worked were determined by the Executive Chef. During the data collection period my intention was to be open and obvious regarding my role as a researcher. Before my first day the 28 Executive Chef let the kitchen staff know of the research and my presence and all ethical concerns went through him. Over the course of each day I would take detailed notes openly in a small green notebook whenever possible. The intention was to follow Fine (1996: 236) in creating a state where my presence as a researcher was no longer a novelty or noteworthy, encouraging participants to be at ease while I remained open about my purpose. The notes were later translated into full descriptive narratives from which field notes were derived and transferred onto a spreadsheet for coding. The first month and a half of the observation period I worked the day shift in the main kitchen, starting approximately 6am and continuing until 2:30pm. Doing this gave me the opportunity to get used to the rhythms and routines of The Amber Flower and learn about day to day food and waste practices, such as which conduits are used and what food journeys take place. The day shift is when most ingredients are prepared and dishes are made; cooking tends to be left for the moments before a dish is needed, similar to what occurs in a restaurant (Fine, 1996). During February I worked in a satellite kitchen to discover the differences between places of operation, before I returned to the main kitchen to contribute to supplying a frenetic university open day. The final month I spent working weddings during the evening shift on Fridays and Saturdays. For these days I began around 3pm and continued until everything was completed which ranged between 9pm and 11pm. The final month provided the opportunity to observe practices regarding onsite formal catering. Photos were taken with permission of the Executive Chef during a separate trip after the observation period. To ensure staff and the firm remain anonymous no identifying features such as logos or staff members were included in the photos presented here. Thematic analysis was used in this research to make the gathered data manageable. Coding through thematic analysis allows data to be collated and categorised to create abstract ideas, which can be revealed by analysing and visualising gathered data (Herbert, 2010: 73). Starting with the central question of waste creation in catering, this was divided into three themes, what counts as food waste, where food waste goes, and the reasons for this movement. Supporting these major themes were four minor themes, available conduits, moments of food becoming waste, 29 relationships between actors and objects, and thoughts regarding waste creation by the participants. These minor themes sought to capture moments of transition as they are present and the entanglements amongst people, objects, places, and ideas. Jointly these present the creation of a dish as assemblage and their journeys throughout the catering kitchen. The seven minor themes were then separated into four or five subthemes each. From the combination of these themes food journeys through catering were derived, the conduits food journeys through, and the impact conduits have on waste creation. The selection of participant observation as a data gathering technique enables a direct view of food journeys through catering, granting visibility to how food changes throughout its journey into becoming waste. Placing a researcher into a research site captures the messiness of the many entanglements between people, objects, places, and times. Through capturing this data, information about moments of transition from one assemblage to another through conduits can be revealed. For this thesis participant observation allows both food journeys that create waste and alternative journeys where food becomes something else to be portrayed. 2.4. Concluding Comments The importance of food waste is centred upon a desire for a sustainable supply of food and more efficient use of resources in its production and consumption. However, the point where this more efficient use can take place is governed by individuals both within and outside catering. People are those who engage with food and make the decisions regarding what it can become. Understanding the practices of those who engage with food and waste is thus essential for understanding how waste is created. For this purpose I have defined the terms of food and waste that I will use throughout the thesis and the means of understanding food assemblages becoming waste through journeys and conduits. Value, as something embedded within an ingredient, or enhanced within a dish through preparation, provides the form, purpose, and structure to items of food. The loss of value is a part of the process of an assemblage becoming waste, or else this value may be converted into something else. For food provided by catering, value is found in its desirability for human consumption. The loss, creation, and changes of this value over time are 30 influenced by the practices that take place within the catering kitchen. Participant observation offers a means to see these practices of staff at The Amber Flower in creating food waste or avoiding its creation, by looking directly at the small changes within food and the interlocking elements that go into food becoming waste or something else. 31 3. Entrée: Situating food journeys As part of a multi-course meal it is traditional to serve an entrée to frame and hint at the themes of the main course to follow. For this menu the entrée will situate the research site. Understanding food journeys requires this contextual knowledge as different places influence how food moves within a firm. With different journeys present in different contexts, there are different practices and different means of creating dishes and waste. Times and places are essential to understanding how and why an activity occurs (Warf & Arias, 2009), as material and social infrastructure defines and limits possible actions (Chappells, Medd, & Shove, 2011). Over this entrée I will elaborate on the chosen function centre by describing its general characteristics and staff. To close the entrée will be a taste of the main course by providing the main creators of waste in food journeys for The Amber Flower. 3.1. The Place of Dining: Describing the firm Situating food journeys within the physical place of a catering firm aids in understanding the ethnographic data and the connections between components discussed in the items of the main course. As food flows are the lifeblood of The Amber Flower, the physical space is its heart which enables these flows to take place. From the building that houses The Amber Flower, dishes can flow to consumers and cycle back again as leftovers. Here is where all decisions regarding conduits and food journeys take place and the space through which all food enters as ingredients and leaves as dishes, waste, or something else. The configuration of this space shapes how and where food goes, as well as the creation of waste. With the research of waste practices contained within the bounds of food moving through the catering kitchen of The Amber Flower. The Amber Flower is located on a university campus. As the university grew the building that now houses The Amber Flower began serving food with a lunch service that continues to this day. Since then it has grown and developed into a function centre, serving food for both onsite functions and catering offsite. The Amber Flower’s connections to the university have remained as it supplies the food to many functions upon the campus and staff are officially paid by the university. Since its conversion to a fully fledged function centre, The Amber Flower has 32 expanded to supply food for functions throughout the nearby city. Before The Amber Flower are picturesque gardens and wide open lawns upon a hill. For large onsite functions the lawns provide space to set up a marquee and provide a secluded place for weddings and corporate functions of up to 450. Inside, The Amber Flower offers four additional rooms for hire. Each of these rooms provides a different amount of space and intimacy to accommodate a diverse range of functions with the largest room seating ninety people and the smallest up to twelve. A significant feature of catering is creating dishes to serve at a site of the host’s choosing. Deliveries are made by a single van painted with The Amber Flower’s colours and logo, which, when not in use, is parked outside the kitchen. Inside, it is spacious and open with shelving to accommodate wrapped and bound dishes (Figure 1). The van delivers food all around the university and is also used in transporting ingredients between The Amber Flower’s main and satellite kitchens. When a function has completed, the delivery van will return and collect the leftover food and any serving plates. These leftovers and serving ware will then be returned to the kitchen. Generally these remains will be placed in blue crates that will be cleaned in the kitchen together with the serving ware. For large functions, or when many functions end at the same time, these crates can prove insufficient and instead large clear containers that are approximately a metre long are used instead. Included in The Amber Flower’s building is an onsite café. Here they provide tea and coffee service from 9am onwards and, from 11:30am until 2pm, a lunch buffet. The food available is generally made daily and is placed on a long counter (Figure 2). The first section is heated and can include a diverse range of dishes with various styles, tastes, and forms, often with meat, rice, and pasta. Next is a chilled section containing cool salads and sushi, followed by a set of stacked wicker baskets holding cutlery. Last is a long, glass cabinet with the daily selection of pies, savouries, muffins, slices, cakes, scones, and sandwiches carefully arranged upon the racks. These sandwiches and baked goods are made fresh daily with each day bringing different flavours depending on what ingredients are available. At the end is the counter where orders are taken and coffee and tea prepared. 33 Figure 1: A view inside The Amber Flower's van. The inside of The Amber Flower’s van is kept clean and tidy, despite the number of dishes that travel within it over the course of any given day. At the back is the shelving and trays upon which dishes are kept for transport to a function. Source: Daniel Ryland, 2015. 34 Figure 2: Onsite lunch buffet. The long counter contains dishes for lunch as well as the necessary cutlery and plates. The closest part is where hot food is placed during the lunch buffet. Temperature control is required to ensure hot food does not cool and cold food does not warm up during the lunch hour. Source: Daniel Ryland, 2015. In The Amber Flower many food journeys and practices involved in creating waste occurred within the kitchen. To give an idea of the formation of this space and to aid in visualising food journeys, a floor plan of the kitchen is provided in Figure 3. During the early morning the kitchen presents an open sanitary space. Sitting in the centre are three greyish workbenches arranged in an ‘I’ shape with one of the rubbish bins nearby. Towards the left is a workstation for making sandwiches, the chiller, and storage for dry ingredients. To the right, ovens, stoves, and heating cabinets predominate. More detailed descriptions of the workstations of each of the kitchen staff will be presented in the next section. As a shift progresses, the kitchen gets increasingly messy as bits of food are dropped, water from cleaning spreads around washstations, and leftovers come back from functions. However at the end of each shift the kitchen is returned to its pristine state by mopping the floors, wiping down workstations, and ensuring all equipment has been cleaned and put away. On the wall above a 35 Figure 3: Floor plan of The Amber Flower’s kitchen. An approximate floor plan of The Amber Flower’s kitchen which gives an idea of the space of food flows. This will provide context for the ethnographical information of food journeys presented in the main course. Thus the journeys and resting places of food and moments where they become waste can be visualised. Source: Daniel Ryland 2014, made using eTeks’ (2006) Sweet Home 3D. 36 bench next to the chiller is one of the important notices, the kitchen report. The report lists all the functions that will be held that day, the number of guests attending each, what food needs to be provided, where and when the function is, and any other notes such as dietary requirements, delivery requests, or noteworthy features chefs need to consider. During the observation period this report ranged from listing three functions with less than ten guests each (15th January) to reports five pages long with approximately fifteen functions and guest numbers in the hundreds (11th December). Access to the kitchen and staff areas is via a small path hidden by part of the garden. Following this path behind the building leads to an enclosed space with a herb garden and small shed. Once inside there is a small corridor leading to offices, changing rooms, toilets, and storage room; through a white door away from the offices can be found the kitchen. Most days the radio is softly playing in the background, but otherwise the kitchen is largely quiet, even when filled with kitchen staff working. The imagined hustle and bustle of the stereotypical television kitchen was a place of an intense silence as each staff member concentrated on work. Even busy periods saw a hush over the kitchen, more likely to be broken by a momentary joke to ease the tension than the loud clatter of pots and pans. Throughout the day the predominant constant background noise would change. Early in the morning there is the whirring of a large mixing machine with the occasional ping of a timer going off; after a large function or the lunch buffet the sound would be the sustained steaming and swishing of the steriliser as a constant stream of cutlery and plates pass through. Kitchen scents would also shift over time. During the early morning the scent of freshly baked muffins and scones floated throughout the kitchen. As the shift continued the smells would be replaced by what was being made for functions and the lunch buffet that day, which could be as diverse as the tang of juices from fruit sliced for a fruit platter to a very smelly spray for imparting a smoky flavour to fish. Evenings in the kitchen lacked the morning baking and instead tended to only smell of the food made for functions. However, at the washstation, where I often worked all smells would soon be replaced with a faint whiff of the cleaning chemical D10 used in both the steriliser and a pair of buckets into which the front staff put cutlery and mugs to soak. 37 In the kitchen, waste is dealt with at the two washstations. The first is placed at the opening between the kitchen to the Front, where used cutlery and plates are placed for cleaning and leftovers from functions come. Nearby is a rubbish bin for staff to place leftovers from plates and upon a wheeled bench sit two buckets filled with a scoop of D10 and lots of hot water for pre-soaking mugs and cutlery. The sink is a standard size and reminiscent of a household sink (Figure 4). Next to the sink is a dispenser for D1 dishwashing liquid and a tap to access boiling water. Plates, kitchen utensils, bowls, and everything else are first rinsed and cleaned at this sink to remove any remaining scraps and tough, baked on food. Then all these rinsed objects go into the steriliser. The steriliser looks like a large steel box with a handle around it (Figure 5). When closed it automatically begins a washing cycle producing a loud whirring and swishing sound as hot water and chemicals are sprayed upon the items within. Throughout this process a lot of heat is given off producing a humid and warm atmosphere around the washstation. When the steriliser completes the cleaning, the sounds will quieten and eventually stop as the water is drained away and the objects within are dried. Opening the steriliser once this process is complete reveals a large, square green or blue plastic pallet filled with steaming warm plates, cutlery, kitchen utensils, and mugs to be put away. Most of the objects come out sparkling clean and relatively dry, but very hot. Handling plates or metal trays would often require the use of a nearby tea towel to avoid burning one’s hands. The entire process takes only a few minutes, just enough time to have the next pallet filled and the cleaned plates, utensils, and other items put away. At the other end of the kitchen is the second washstation which is placed behind the central workbenches and was called ‘grand central station’ by one of the staff (Figure 6). Into this sink are placed the largest objects that need to be cleaned such as cooking trays and chopping boards, and where kitchen utensils such as muffins trays and baking trays are placed to be soaked. Similar to the main washstation there is a D1 dispenser, but there is neither a steriliser nor a rubbish bin nearby. Instead 38 Figure 4: Sink at the washstation. Here is the washstation, where all the plates and cutlery are dealt with before going into the steriliser. The container labelled ‘Hydro’ on the left contains the dishwashing liquid D1. In the plastic green tray on the right sits plates which have been cleaned and are ready to go through the steriliser. Source: Daniel Ryland, 2015. 39 Figure 5: The Amber Flower’s steriliser. Next to the washstation is the all important steriliser. All plates, trays, and most kitchen equipment pass between these metal walls. In the image above a metal serving tray has recently been sterilised and a stack of plates and serving platters from a function are about to pass through. Source: Daniel Ryland, 2015. 40 Figure 6: A second washstation, ‘Grand Central Station.’ At the second washstation items that are too big for the smaller one may be washed and left to soak without slowing down the pace of cleaning. Here also is where kitchen staff has access to water when needed for cooking. A waste disposal unit in the drain ensures that food scraps can easily go down the drain. Source: Daniel Ryland, 2015. the sink includes a waste disposal unit which drains the sink and grinds up food as it passes down the drain. A benefit of having a second washstation is its ability to be used by another member of the kitchen staff to rinse and clean objects before taking them to the steriliser, thus more can be cleaned and made available for once again preparing and eating food. All objects cleaned this way must still be placed in the steriliser, thus after cleaning they are taken across the kitchen to be sterilised. Ingredients or leftovers placed to the right of this washstation is an indicator that they are no longer valuable and can be tipped down the drain. Located approximately two kilometres distant is a smaller satellite kitchen of The Amber Flower. Here The Amber Flower provides breakfast, morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner at an institution and convention centre. On the instances I observed, there were between thirty and forty guests to serve. The satellite kitchen itself is a small room added to the side of a larger building and can only comfortably fit a few people working at the same time. Compared to the main kitchen, the tighter space 41 and fewer things to clean ensured the scent of cooking food was more prominent. Most mornings I spent at the satellite kitchen were spent quietly as the radio was not turned on until the front staff arrived closer to 9am. Beside the satellite kitchen is an open, sunlit room that serves as a dining area. The spaces described frame the bounds of food journeys f