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    Becoming a ‘good’ Muslim woman : comparing habitus and everyday lived religiosity : an ethnographic study of Aotearoa New Zealand Muslim women : a dissertation presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Social Anthropology at Massey University, Palmerston North, Manawatu, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2023-11-10) Cheema, Hina Tabassum
    For women like us Every day isn’t about a sunrise Every night isn’t about a sunset Between our sunrise and sunset There are puzzles to solve Of the pictures never seen before Missing and broken pieces And bits mixed up from other puzzles But surprisingly Sometimes we make them And other times, they break us And occasionally They are left unsolved Lingering in on our minds Becoming part of us This thesis is an ethnographic study of everyday lived experiences of Muslim women immigrants in Aotearoa New Zealand. Through a focus on everyday lived religiosity, I explore the lives of Muslim women, who are extremely diverse and in the state of becoming as depicted in the poem. I extend Bourdieu’s theory of Habitus by introducing Comparing Habitus as an analytical tool which allows us to comprehend and analyse the diversity, multiplicity, complexity, intersubjectivity, heterogeneity, fluidity and unfinishedness of Muslim women’s lived experiences in Aotearoa NZ. I also use Deleuze and Guattari’s notion of becoming and Das’s theory of everyday to understand the complex and intersubjective ways of becoming ‘good’ Muslim women and their negotiations of everyday challenges in a non-Muslim context. I use the framework of lived religion to capture my participants' experiences to understand these experiences as ordinary Muslims; e.g., what Muslims do rather than what Islam says. The use of poetry and autoethnographic commentaries throughout the thesis adds another layer to the analysis to confer insights and to help understand my participants’ experiences in more depth. The study concludes that being a Muslim woman immigrant in Aotearoa NZ is an ongoing agentive and complex process that is continuously defined and redefined, not always in a linear direction. Muslim women make sense of their lives through engagement with other Muslim women and use comparison as one of the key strategies to make everyday decisions. My research participants are on journeys to understand Islam more logically, using their agency to actively negotiate situations, and are constantly engaged in finding meaning in their lives. The study suggests the need to understand Muslim women as cultural and social beings who actively negotiate their everyday challenges.
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    Stitching a new garment: Considering the future of the speech–language therapy profession globally
    (AOSIS, 2022-11-21) Staley B; Fernandes M; Hickey E; Barrett H; Wylie K; Marshall J; Pillay M; Kathard H; Sowden R; Rochus D; Westby CE; Roman TR; Hartley SD
    Providing equitable support for people experiencing communication disability (CD) globally is a historical and contemporary challenge for the speech–language therapy profession. A group of speech–language therapists (SLTs) with ongoing and sustained experiences in Majority and Minority World contexts participated in five virtual meetings in 2021. The aim of these meetings was to develop provocative statements that might spur a global discussion among individuals and organisations that support people experiencing CD. The following questions were discussed: What is our vision for the future of the profession globally? What are the global challenges around access to speech–language therapy services? Four main themes emerged: (1) the need to centre people experiencing CD as the focal point of services, (2) participation, (3) equity and (4) community. The themes relate to the need for a process of de-imperialism in the profession. Suggestions were made to develop more suitable terminology and to establish a global framework that promotes more equitable access to communication services. We seek the adoption of approaches that focus on reciprocal global engagement for capacity strengthening. Alternative models of culturally sustaining and equitable service delivery are needed to create impact for people experiencing CD, and their families worldwide. Contribution: Provocative statements were developed to prompt global conversations among speech–language therapy professionals and associations. We encourage readers to consider the questions posed, share their viewpoints and initiate positive change towards a global strategy.
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    Lesbian style : designing a lesbian fashion collection : a thesis submitted in partial fulfilment for the degree of Master of Design, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2019) Browne, Neneh
    Lesbian style and expression is an area of fashion which is underrepresented in the fashion industry as well as in the teachings of fashion. Fashion as an industry is overwhelmingly viewed as a gay man’s domain as men make up a majority of creative director positions in western fashion houses and many of fashion’s most influential figures are openly gay men (Pike 2016). Lesbians by comparison are associated primarily with being unfashionable – and more harshly in accordance with heterosexist feminine standards – ugly (Karaminas 2013). Through this research project, I explore how style is utilised and influenced by the lesbian experience and propose that, despite stereotypes, lesbian style goes beyond Birkenstocks and dungarees and can be used as an influence for subversive contemporary design. This research is made up of two components – an analysis of lesbian style history in the 20th century cumulating in the 1980’s, followed by an exploration of 80’s club and subcultural styles. There is a particular focus on the design practices of Vivienne Westwood, Walter Van Beirendonck and Elsa Schiaparelli. This analysis acts as the primary focus for the second component: a design practice outcome of five fashion looks using a bricolage and historic revivalist methodology inspired by 80’s subcultural style. The design outcome aims to showcase how clothing can be designed with specific lesbian coding.
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    Bounded bodies : the everyday clothing practices of larger women : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Sociology, Massey University, Albany, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2011) Cain, Trudie Melissa
    The field of dress studies currently emphasises dress as an embodied practice, but surprisingly scant attention has been awarded to the fat fleshy clothed body. This thesis addresses this lacuna, and is concerned with the everyday clothing practices of larger women. Theoretically, I draw on and integrate literature from material culture studies, as well as from the politics of fatness, the latter serving as the socio-cultural foundation for the research. In doing so, my research contributes to and extends the current body of literature that considers dress as material culture. This thesis offers further extension of the field through the methodological focus of the research. Employing multiple inter-related methods allows the complex social processes of larger women?s clothing practices to be revealed. Often these processes are embedded within the seemingly habitual, mundane, everyday things that people do while operating within a particular social milieu. With this in mind, I employ an ethnographically-inspired, multiple-method research methodology to explore the everyday clothing practices of ten self-identified larger women in Auckland, New Zealand. The five research methods involve asking the participants to: keep a clothing journal; rummage through their wardrobe with me; go shopping for clothes with me; take photographs of their „clothed worlds?; and take part in a group discussion with other participants. Employing an integrative analytic process, I reveal the numerous ways that larger women enact their agency at the same time as being bound within structures of socio-cultural corporeal and clothing norms. My research shows that the boundaries between fleshy fat bodies, clothing and culturally-bound geographical spaces are experienced by my participants as tension-filled and ambiguous. Ultimately, they are perpetually provisional; the boundaries fixed yet potentially permeable. Using space as an organisational and analytic framework, my research explores the boundaries of four distinct spaces: spaces of consumption; public spaces beyond consumption; private spaces; and the spaces between fat bodies and clothes. I argue that, despite structural barriers that create „fat? bodies as „matter out of place? and, as such, beyond the bounds of possibility, larger women enact agency in creative and resourceful ways. In doing so, they challenge the boundaries of dominant Western constructions of fatness and ultimately, transform places of exclusion into spaces of inclusion.