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Subject: search.filters.subject.Dyes and dyeing

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    Handmade tales : sustainable fashion through craft connections : a thesis submitted in partial fulfilment for the degree of Master of Design, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2016) Kapur, Harita
    India is a country with an ancient history. The crafts of this country are diverse and are a reflection of the country’s cultural heritage. According to Dasra (2013), the craft industry provides millions of artisans with employment and is one of the largest small scale or cottage industries. For centuries, these craft communities have specialized in traditions that are specific to the regions and respective skills, which have been handed down from generations of artisans. Yet in recent years, as Wood (2011) notes, this sector faces a major threat as a result of growing preference for mass produced designs that are cheap and easy to afford. This has contributed to the steady decline of craft based products. This, alongside a lack of knowledge of new innovative ways to design, and decreasing demand for their products have left the craftspeople very vulnerable and has posed a big threat to their sustainable livelihoods. Integrating fashion design with artisan textiles can help regenerate the community and village culture while enhancing the value of products. This practice led research project offers a framework to meet the emerging challenges associated with ethical and environmental principles linked with fashion by incorporating sustainable processes used in traditional craft production. Importantly, it can also offer one strategy to support economic sustainability issues linked to the livelihood of craftspeople at the village level. The project develops an example of a sustainable fashion design process by drawing from the rich heritage of Indian crafts and focuses on developing a fashion collection that integrates artisan craft textiles into the design process. This reaches out to a market that is sensitive towards sustainability issues linked to artisan livelihood and fashion and values the handmade and organic as an alternative approach. This exploration of issues related to sustainability both for fashion design and craft is an attempt to uncover why developing a relationship between the two is significantly more relevant today than it ever has been.
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    A spectroscopic analysis of ionic liquid properties : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Nanoscience at Massey University, Manawatū, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2013) Way, Ashley Jacqulyne
    The use of ionic liquids in chemical processes is becoming of increasing interest, due to the low volatility of ionic liquids, and the wide range of properties which they possess. The ability to select properties based on anion and cation choice is also desirable. As such, the development of a solvent reorganization energy scale incorporating both common organic solvents and ionic liquids is useful, as it can be used to determine appropriate ionic liquid replacements of common organic solvents for use in applications. Raman spectroscopy studies have been performed on solutions of the solvatochromic Reichardt’s dye in a selection of common organic and ionic liquid solvents. Due to the solvatochromism of Reichardt’s dye, it behaves differently in solvents with differing properties. As such, the cross-sections of bands in Raman spectra associated with Reichardt’s dye differ between solvents also. Modelling of these cross-sections enables solvent properties to be determined. Absorption spectra were acquired of each sample, and resonance Raman spectra of each sample were recorded at a range of excitation wavelengths. After appropriate data treatment, the absorption and Raman cross-sections were determined, in order to enable the modelling of absorption and Raman crosssection profiles. The modelling of these profiles enabled the solvent reorganization energy of the organic solvents and ionic liquids to be determined, and a relative scale of solvent reorganization prepared. Computational studies were performed in order to better understand the dynamics of Reichardt’s dye in solution. The results from the studies were used to assign the vibrational modes of the Reichardt’s dye to bands in the resonance Raman spectra. From a solvent reorganization standpoint, it was found that common organic solvents may be replaced by ionic liquids of similar properties in applications where solvent volatility is an issue. In addition to this, the information obtained through the use of the solvent reorganization energy scale is able to be directly related to applications of ionic liquids involving electron transfer.