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    Modularity in apparel production : an industry-integrated investigation : Master of Design exegesis, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2019) Hoori, Te Paea
    The central focus of this project, as outlined in the industry brief, is to develop the workflow and manufacturing capabilities of the apparel company Kapinua, through expansion of the brand’s 3D-integrated, customer driven, e-commerce platform. Based in Levin, New Zealand, Kapinua is a vertically-integrated manufacturing and retailing company. Specialising in made-to-order (MTO) digitally printed garments, Kapinua have developed an online platform that allows its users to select and customise garments from their web browser. With the support of New Zealand government organisation Callaghan Innovation, Kapinua wishes to expand, develop and refine this digital asset. Through iterative design practice, analysis of Kapinua’s systems and processes, reflective documentation, and literary research, this work looks to explore possible applications of customisation and modularity in the production of apparel. Informed by client needs, the primary project outcomes are relevant sizing charts informed by parametric research; grading rule tables; modular pattern templates; a library of products prepared for Kapinua’s 3D-integrated, online platform; and a structured filing system to organise and access digital assets. Further objectives include improved efficiency through workflow streamlining and early iterations of resources designed to assist with future product development within the company. More broadly, this research poses the question: How can digital technologies help create economically-viable, structurally customisable patterns - and how can this increase customer satisfaction, garment fit, and improve the way we engage with clothing?
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    The new costume designer : an exploration of digital and physical technologies for costume development in the film industry : an exegesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design, Massey University, College of Creative Arts, Wellington, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2019) Lewis, Jessica
    Three-dimensional (3D) simulation software is utilised for digital visualization of garment design, pattern development, drape, and fit on virtual models and avatars within the costume and fashion industries. This practice-led project explores the use of digital design technologies for costumes created in a digital space and asks “How do current digital and physical technologies work as integrated practice within the industry of costume design for film?” From a fashion perspective, many researchers have looked into how historical costumes can be reproduced as accurate 3D models or how 3D modelling software can be used for prototyping and fit for production efficiency. However, there is little published academic research discussing the use of digital technologies by costume designers for physical costume design and development in the film industry. Initial research for this project included interviews with experts from physical costume design departments in the film industry to gain insight as to the extent and relevance of collaborative work experiences using both physical and digital processes, systems and technologies within their practice. Through an original creative project using an iterative design process, this research project focuses on the generation of physical costume concepts for a fantasy creature. These costumes are designed to tailor to the exaggerated humanoid body of the “koloss” character from Brandon Sanderson’s Mistborn: Era 1 series as he morphs from a child to an adult. This project explores how patternmaking and 3D cloth simulation software can be applied to costume generation that navigates the physical and virtual world. Digital and physical visual, patternmaking, and sampling tools are utilised with tacit knowledge of an experienced technical fashion designer to explore how physical costume designers can feel empowered in the creative process when working between physical and digital departments.
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    A computer aided design system with parametric dimensioning : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Philosophy in Industrial Technology at Massey University
    (Massey University, 1987) Meads, Brian Morris
    This thesis develops the concept of a parametrically dimensioned CAD system. Conventional CAD systems require the actual dimensions of all objects drawn to be defined during the drawing process. To alter any dimension requires manual modification of all affected objects in the drawing. Parametrically dimensioned CAD systems would allow drawings to be constructed containing dimensions defined using variable parameters. These parametric drawings could then be fully specified at some later stage by supplying actual values for the parameters. Such systems would allow drawings of families of components (that varied only in their dimensions) to be easily produced from a single parametric drawing, would simplify dimensional modifications to drawings, and would permit the drawing production to be part of an automated design process. The general requirements for such a parametric CAD system are developed in the thesis and the implementation of a limited package based on these ideas is described. On the basis of this work, it has been concluded that such systems are viable, could have successful user interfaces and would be a valuable extension to conventional CAD packages.
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    An object-oriented database methodology for application development with extended relational or object-oriented DBMS : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in Computer Science at Massey University
    (Massey University, 1992) Liew, Benny
    Recently development methodologies have been proposed which describe themselves as "Object Oriented". While all of them offer approaches to extended data and behavioural modelling, none of them seem fully adequate to address the total concept of object-oriented development. They often do not provide constructs which lead to the use of databases, nor do they always recognise the shift from sequential to prototyping style which is inherent in much object-oriented technology. The objective of this thesis is to lay a framework for an object-oriented methodology suitable for OODBMS. Details of conventional methods for developing database applications, and of the recent OO methods, have been examined and compared in order to propose a coherent set of tasks and deliverables. Account has also been taken of designing for re-use, which has been one of the main selling points of the OO approach. The proposed methodology attempts to address related side issues, with particular focus on object concurrency, which seems particularly thinly covered in many of the current proposals. Many other side issues are also mentioned, but due to time constraints, they are not given any further discussion. The topic is an extremely multidisciplinary one, and a very wide range of expertise would be necessary to do justice to all these aspects. Mapping of the new methodology has been tried on two case study examples using Postgres and Ontos. Postgres is an extended relational DBMS developed as a research prototype at University of California, Berkeley. Ontos is the commercial object-oriented DBMS marketed by Ontos Incorporated, Burlington, Massachusetts. Some details of these implementation examples are included.
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    Being @ : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design at Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2006) Foster, Stuart
    In the past decade, the rapid proliferation of computers and networked communication technologies has offered the opportunity to experience a new kind of space, a space that is real but immaterial, where the imaginary can be shown without the need or support of concrete matter. We are entering a new era in our everyday interaction with the world, "an era of electronically extended bodies living at intersection points of the physical and virtual worlds" (Mitchell, 1995, p.24). This thesis operates in an unstable zone that bridges these two realms. The research applies theoretical findings into the production of an experiential system, a system that operates across the corporeality of the physical environment and the metaphysical realm of a cyber-spatial environment. The research proposes that Cyberspace can be conceptualised as a representation of spatial experience figured upon 'being-in-the-world' (a phenomenological paradigm). It aims to locate, define and operate within and across the liminal zone, the threshold between corporeal space experience and computer meditated space. This zone, in terms of spatiality, is framed as the experience of the interface, the dematerialising horizon of human being and place (Perella, 1995). Interface becomes the point of departure from corporeal into the metaphysical dimensions of cyber-spatiality.
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    Computer-aided control design systems : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Technology in Industrial Management and Engineering at Massey University
    (Massey University, 1976) Nguyen, Thi Minh Phuong
    This thesis is concerned with the application of computer-aided design to classical control theory. In classical control theory, much of the effort of control system design is concerned with the generation of charts for such aspects as time response, root locus and frequency response characteristics. These charts are time consuming to prepare by hand, even though short cut techniques are often available to obtain sketches which closely approximate the actual characteristics. A digital computer is able to assist in these conventional design procedures by generating the appropriate charts for inspection by the designer, thereby taking much of the manual effort out of the design processes. This thesis describes the development of an interactive design package. Software for computer-aided control system design has been programmed to operate, via a visual display terminal, in an online interactive mode. The control designer, using the terminal console, is able to specify certain designs and evaluate their effectiveness in terms of the various graphical analyses produced by the computer and displayed on the screen of the terminal.
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    Prediction of problems in injection moulded plastic products with computer aided mould design software : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Technology in Manufacturing and Industrial Technology at Massey University
    (Massey University, 1996) Cayzer, Peter Ian
    Several new technologies to assist plastic injection moulding companies have been developed in the last twenty years. A number of computer software programs are now available which could revolutionise mould design. The most exciting aspect of the Computer Aided Mould Design (CAMD) software is the effect it has on reducing the lead time required to produce a working mould from a product concept. The application of the new technology for designing moulds, however, has been slow in New Zealand. One of the main reasons for the slow progress is the perceived value of the software or consulting services. Many injection moulding companies who design and manufacture moulds do not realise the great potential of CAMD software to save many hours of mould changes and volume of polymer material, even when the program is used after the mould has been made. However, the true benefits are only seen when the mould is designed using CAMD before the mould has been manufactured. Moulds manufactured correctly the first time save a great deal of time, energy and money. The value of the software is not completely understood by injection moulding manufacturers. They perceive the immediate benefits, however, the ongoing benefits are not recognised. A project was carried out to demonstrate the potential of CAMD software in determining moulding problems in existing injection moulded products. Four products, two of which were supplied by an injection moulding company, that had moulding problems, were simulated using Moldflow, a CAMD software package. The results of the simulation were compared with the actual moulding problems. It was found that the Moldflow simulation results described the problems occurring in the moulds accurately. Moulding problems included warpage, air traps and weld lines in poor positions and flow marks. Warpage is a major problem in injection moulded products. Even simple products can warp if not designed correctly. The only problems Moldflow did not identify, and does not claim to, were the flow marks caused by jetting and splashing of plastic as it entered the cavity. The designer must be aware of the problems caused by jetting and design gates to avoid it. Moldflow, and other CAMD software, are beneficial tools for the mould designer. The advantages of CAMD include short mould development time, shorter lead times from concept to production, reduction in the amount of material used, fewer changes to machine settings and predictable, repeatable quality. These benefits are not only savings in the mould design and manufacture, they also continue on into the processing of the product since less material is used in the product and machine down time caused by moulding problems is greatly reduced.
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    Mould design and manufacturing using computer technology : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master in Technology at Massey University
    (Massey University, 2000) Lam, Yuk-sun
    This thesis presents a research work carried out at the Institute of Technology and Engineering of Massey University. The overall goal of the project is to develop an integrated mould design and manufacturing system for teaching and research. The development involves establishing a computer-aided design, computer-aided manufacturing, CNC machining, and injection moulding program for Technology and Engineering undergraduate and postgraduate students. An integrated CAD/CAM/CAE and CNC system has been established through this project. Four laboratory courses together with the tutorials have been developed and established. This design and manufacturing system and the corresponding laboratory courses provide a great support for Engineering Design and Manufacturing programmes. The laboratory courses give the opportunities to the students to gain the experience from concept design, through hands-on project, to the final physical product. The research work presented went through four stages. Before this project started, the Institute of Technology and Engineering (ITE) had a stand alone CNC milling machine, a CNC lathe, an injection moulding machine, a limited number of PCs and a few CAD licenses. The first stage was to develop an integrated CAD/CAM/CAE and CNC system based on the existing facilities in ITE and the limited funding provided by the fund of innovation and excellence in teaching. The second stage was focused on product design. It was realized that a product is needed for the development of this project. This product must have the features to demonstrate the applications of computer-aided technologies in product design, analysis and manufacturing. The product must also be a plastic component in order to smoothly integrate plastic injection moulding technologies within the programme. Stage three was to build and produce the die set of the product, which involves mould design and analysis, simulation, testing, tooling, and actual CNC machining. The final stage was to develop the laboratory courses, write the tutorials and produce a demonstration program. Four lab courses and the tutorials were developed, which cover CAD, CAM, CNC, and injection moulding. These labs provide students with hands-on and practical experience. The project has been successfully completed. The demonstration program is now used for ITE's open day and other occasions such as visitors from industries, high schools and other organisations. The four lab courses are now taken by 3rd and 4th year B.Eng and B.Tech students in the Institute of Technology and Engineering.
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    Capturing loft : adding value to New Zealand wool bedding products through textile design innovation : an exegesis in partial fulfilment towards a Master of Design, Massey University.
    (Massey University, 2014) Olatunji, Kelly Rimkeit
    This design-led research project was developed in collaboration with the Christchurch-based bedding manufacturing firm FibreTech New Zealand Limited. It explored the potential of an innovative wool-fill product developed by FibreTech. This new wool-fill maximises loft and bulk, both key factors for warmth and comfort in bedding. Loft is an active, three-dimensional feature of bedding, controlled through processes of compression and release. Retaining and managing loft was vital. The designer provided a holistic approach, using a textile design perspective to explore functionality and aesthetics in relation to the structure of the fill and outer membrane layers of bedding products. Through material sampling the project assessed how FibreTech’s new wool product could be layered and bonded with other textiles. The technical processes of needle punching, fusing and stitch bonding were used to explore the loft and compression relationship within the textiles. It was found that ratios of loft and compression could be altered to improve the efficiency of manufacturing; while at the same time optimising functionality and aesthetics. Textile design, wool knops, knoppy web, New Zealand wool, loft, overbody bedding, underbody bedding, sampling, research and development, digital quilting, computer-aided design Key words: Using the existing manufacturing process of digital quilting, stitch paths were redesigned to create an innovative range of bedding products for use over and under the body. The resulting textiles revealed a departure from classic bedding construction, with a new focus on controlling the stitch line through computer-aided design (CAD) technology. This hard-edged stitch line was a digital imposition that contrasted with the organic nature of soft, lofted materials. This visual and haptic tension was identified as key design interplay for both overbody and underbody approaches. Strategies were created towards lightweight overbody bedding and engineered shaping of underbody bedding. These new digital quilting strategies captured loft in distinctly different, yet functional ways. This project provides evidence that a textile designer can be a key contributor in the manufacturing industry, along with other disciplines such as science and engineering to add value to research and development in the New Zealand wool textile manufacturing industry. The design research progressed as a Callaghan Innovation Postgraduate Fellowship project and represents the development of a new aesthetic for wool bedding products.
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    Simplified computer-aided design software for mass customisation : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Engineering in Mechatronics at Massey University, Albany, New Zealand
    (Massey University, 2014) Biddle, Travers
    The advent of 3D printers has created a demand for products that are individually customized to satisfy a user’s needs. Currently, there are no software tools for intuitively customising a part or object, suitable for printing with a 3D printer. Most Computer-Aided Design packages require substantial user training, and are prohibitively expensive. There is a market gap for a product that allows a user to customise a product to their own tastes, with no knowledge required for how the product works or how its parts fit together. Instead of forcing a user to wholly create a product model, they should be given a working model of their desired product and the tools to customise it. They should be able to do so without needing any of the skills or expertise of a professional designer or engineer. For this project, Existing CAD software was investigated to find their markets, their features and their advantages and drawbacks. No software was found that would entirely address the needs identified above. A proof-of-concept piece of software was written that demonstrates simple modifications to single parts through the clicking and dragging of faces. The resulting customised part can then be saved in a format suitable for 3D printing. The proof-of-concept software succeeded in being simple enough for an untrained user to be able to intuitively customize a part, and several features were identified that would need to be implemented for a release version.