'Mao' & me : thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design in Fashion at Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
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Date
2012
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Massey University
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Abstract
The intention of this narrative project is to journey
through a process of practice-led design research while
re-evaluating and reflecting upon my Chinese culture in New
Zealand. My analysis begins with ‘Mao’s Jacket’, which was
worn by Chairman Mao Zedong during his leadership of
China. It is a symbolic piece of clothing that has a cultural/
political/social identity that expresses some core values and
fundamental ideologies of order, harmony and power related
to governance (Tsui, 2009, pp. 6-9; Wu, 2009, p. 123).
This framework supports and is the agency of collectivism
representing the group that the individual serves. The jacket
is the agent that becomes the means of engagement, while
disseminating the various voices that are speaking from a new
environment.
The deconstruction exercise of this research project involves
dismantling of the jacket and its parts through steps of
deformation and reformation to expose a number of
conflicting issues. The term deconstruction is used in the
fashion world, and is associated with the theories of the
philosopher Jacques Derrida (Gill, 1998, p. 35).
Deconstruction goes through certain social and political
structures…to deconstruct traditional sanctions – theoretical,
philosophical, cultural – effectively, you have to displace…I
would say “solid” structures, not only in the sense of material
structures, but “solid” in the sense of cultural, pedagogical,
political, economical structures. (Derrida, 1988, as cited in
Loscialpo, 2009, p. 2-3)
My design research will grapple with contradictions that
exist in my own pursuit of individualism, while staying
true to the collectivist principles that I had rigidly defended.
There was a need for resolve as I continued with my search
for a personal equilibrium that will assist in moving forward
with my personal and cultural identity. According to
Catriona Mackenzie, there are three interrelated suggestions
concerning self-definition: “Point of view” – your beliefs,
emotions and desires; “values”– what you care about or what
really matters to you; and “self-conception” – how you see
yourself, the ideal future self (Mackenzie, 2005, p. 284). This
increased understanding of my resolve provides a greater
cultural acknowledgment and design position.
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Keywords
Mao suit, Clothing, China, Individualism vs collectivism, Clothing and politics, Jacket, Deconstruction, Fashion