Draped garments : the influences of fabric characteristics and draping methods on 3D form : a thesis presented in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design at Massey University

Abstract

This thesis explores the way in which fabric characteristics; in particular the drapeability can influence and create three-dimensional form for garments. The aim is to combine scientific, visual and drape research and design methodologies to better inform the final design outcome - in this case a collcction of garments. The characteristics of a fabric influence the draping effect. How fabrics with different drapeabilities influence design ideas and final forms is explored and revealed in this thesis. An experimental fabric drape testing method is developed, which is suitable for the design processes of a practicing designer in order to investigate fabrics' drape characteristics. Six fabrics are chosen from the experiments that establish the quantitative and visual evidences for the design development. Each fabric is draped into one form according to its characteristic that influences the design ideas. Then other fabrics arc draped into the same form to provide comparisons of their different performances and evaluate how they create different appearances for the same form. A range of three-dimensional effects that are different from conventional garment shapes are created in which the fabric controls the final form. Various draping methods inspired by selected contemporary designers are employed to design the spatial effects around the body. Concepts of deconstruction, imperfection, volume, voids and architectural shape, are addressed in the design methodology. The collection "Changing Dresses" is the final outcome of the initial design research, in which six dresses are creatcd with variations from a single basic form. A range of draping methods are employed that best highlight the qualities of the fabrics and create sculptural forms that reflect the knowledge of fabrics on the body gained through the research. The three-dimensional garments, thus, stem from the research into the relationships among fabric characteristics and draping methods.