Affirming essentials : bound with love : an exegesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the Master of Design at Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand. EMBARGOED until 9th October 2027.

Abstract

Chest binding, the non-invasive compression of chest tissue, is a primary method for alleviating gender dysphoria among assigned female at birth (AFAB) transgender and gender minority (TGM) individuals. While essential for mental well-being, conventional binders often cause significant physical discomfort and health risks. This study addresses an exigent need for a binder that is uncompromising in comfort, reduces long-term physical impacts, and offers a flexible, breathable design that allows for an active lifestyle while maintaining the affirming benefits of chest compression. The research aims to develop a base chest binder prototype with customisable qualities that prioritise comfort, breathability, and mobility by shifting from excessive compression to tissue reshaping and secure repositioning. Employing inclusive design methodologies, this study centres the lived experiences of wearers through online ethnography, counsellor, clinician and advocate interviews, and first-person narratives in secondary literature. The iterative design process follows a four-phase/four-step prototyping methodology, with initial self-wear evaluation by the researcher and plans for further community-wear testing. The outcome is a 100% elasticated tankini-style binder featuring a concealed silicone-based interior that enables chest tissue reshaping and sculpting while eliminating external seams and restrictive elements such as non-stretch layers and shoulder limitations. This innovation significantly enhances mobility, reduces pressure on the ribs and organs, and ensures greater ease of movement, deeper breathing, and sensory comfort. Beyond its material and functional contributions, this study engages broader discussions on power, gender, and body autonomy, demonstrating the potential of inclusive, user-centred design in fashion and product development. The findings challenge conventional binding paradigms by proving that effective gender-affirming wearables can act as a flexible second skin rather than a rigid compression tool. Additionally, the research introduces a spectrum of material and silicone-based reshaping techniques adaptable to diverse needs. The impact of this work extends beyond chest binding, with implications for adaptive fashion and body molding technology.