Mobius Band Seamless 3D Whole-Garment Weaving Method

Abstract

This practice-led research investigates the potential of eliminating cutting lines to achieve seamless, whole-garment woven apparel using the Mobius Band technique in the context of the zero-waste design thinking. Relying on the inherent advantages of knitting structure, fully fashioned knitting has been researched for producing three-dimensional (3D) apparel while reducing textile waste. However, there is limited research and practice to explore fully-fashioned woven apparel or seamless whole garment weaving directly on the loom. The conventional woven textile and fashion production systems exacerbate the division of knowledge, limiting opportunities to extend the whole garment weaving practice. This research aims to bridge the gap between loom weaving and fashion pattern-making by hand-weaving a Mobius Band zero-waste coat block - a foundational garment shape for coats and outerwear - using a digitally controlled jacquard loom (TC2). The Mobius Band technique creates a garment from a single, continuous piece of fabric incorporating an intentional twist, producing a seamless, reversible, and transformable design (Li et al. Citation2025). This unique topological structure introduces new possibilities for producing zero-waste, whole garments directly on the loom, eliminating the need for traditional cut-and-sew construction. Conventional pattern-making including most zero-waste methods, relies on cutting 2D woven textiles to construct 3D woven apparel. This rigid approach limits fashion designers and pattern makers seeking alternative approaches to reduce textile waste and rethink garment construction from the outset. This paper questions the necessity of cut-and-sew techniques in the assembly of woven apparel. It proposes an alternative approach that disrupts the conventional sequence of production. In doing so, it responds to the ongoing issue of global textile waste. By reimagining the relationship between weaving and garment construction, this method offers a potential pathway towards a zero-waste, slow fashion model for the future of the apparel industry.