Kimono unfolded and reimagined : an exploration of Japanese aesthetics in Western fashion design : a thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for a Master in Design at Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
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Date
2019
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Massey University
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Abstract
Fashion is a strong visual language that transcends cultures, and in
this globalised era, has increasingly become a place of conflict and
contemplation. As a New Zealand born designer with Japanese heritage,
cross cultural design, cultural misrepresentation and appropriation
have become topics of interest in my fashion practice. Japonism, a late
nineteenth century aesthetic movement affected the arts throughout
Western culture. It opened up new design concepts to early twentieth
century European fashion designers, and continues to influence
contemporary fashion houses in the twenty-first century. In order to gain
an insight into how Japanese fashion design is perceived by Western
society, this research project looks into Japanese aesthetic principles and
their impact on contemporary fashion. Late twentieth century Japanese
designers Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo in addition
to contemporary fast fashion brands such as Uniqlo have made their break
into the Western market in an age where consumers are becoming more
aware of the social and environmental impacts of fashion. The Japanese
kimono continues to be worn and adapted by many people around the
world and has also been a source of inspiration for many artists and
designers. In this research project, the silhouette and structural form of
the kimono are analysed alongside autoethnographic research methods,
reflective practice, iterative design and sustainable design methods. These
concepts are translated into Kiru, a contemporary fashion collection.
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All Figures are either in the public domain or used with permission if properly credited.
Keywords
Maruyama, Yoshino, Kiru, Fashion, Clothing and dress, Japanese influences, Kimonos