Shaped to fit : an essay presented in partial fulfilment for the degree of Master of Design, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
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Date
2016
DOI
Open Access Location
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Massey University
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Abstract
This practise-led project investigates alternative
pattern cutting processes for the design and making
of a small collection of women’s swimwear for
recreational purpose. The traditional pattern matrix
system used to design patterns has little anatomical
relationship to the moving body (Lindqvist, 2013).
However there are alternative pattern design
practitioners who step outside of this model (Sevin-
Doering, 2004, Wang, 2011, Lindqvist, 2013,
Cumming, 2015) These methodologies offer benefits
to high stretch knit designs, enabling the designer to
enhance garment fit by transferring shaping in direct
relationship to the body to provide support and aid
movement. An investigation of one piece pattern
cutting for a close fit using woven and knit fabrics
will play an important role in the technical design
process. This analysis considers the application of
Cumming’s method of one piece pattern development
for fitted body garments along with an expanded
analysis of methods and designs developed from
other one piece cutting practitioners and active wear
researchers informing the development of recreational
swimwear (Sevin-Doering, 2004, Lindqvist, 2013,
Cumming, 2015). Methods combining technical
research and an iterative design practice including
design, toile, sampling processes and motion wear
qualitative testing to analyse designs. The use of
new pattern cutting methods can improve the fit and
comfort and subsequent performance capacity of
recreational swimwear without the reliance on high
performance materials. The benefits of this method
encourage the designer to pattern design to the body
shape and utilise fabric properties to meet the gap in
the market between the fashion consumer and the elite
athlete. Further developments open up opportunities
for future developments including smart technologies
and complete garment technology applications
(Brownbridge, 2016).
Keywords: alternative pattern methodologies, one
piece pattern design, direction grainline, high stretch
knit, recreational swimwear.
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Bathing suits