Shaped to fit : an essay presented in partial fulfilment for the degree of Master of Design, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand

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This practise-led project investigates alternative pattern cutting processes for the design and making of a small collection of women’s swimwear for recreational purpose. The traditional pattern matrix system used to design patterns has little anatomical relationship to the moving body (Lindqvist, 2013). However there are alternative pattern design practitioners who step outside of this model (Sevin- Doering, 2004, Wang, 2011, Lindqvist, 2013, Cumming, 2015) These methodologies offer benefits to high stretch knit designs, enabling the designer to enhance garment fit by transferring shaping in direct relationship to the body to provide support and aid movement. An investigation of one piece pattern cutting for a close fit using woven and knit fabrics will play an important role in the technical design process. This analysis considers the application of Cumming’s method of one piece pattern development for fitted body garments along with an expanded analysis of methods and designs developed from other one piece cutting practitioners and active wear researchers informing the development of recreational swimwear (Sevin-Doering, 2004, Lindqvist, 2013, Cumming, 2015). Methods combining technical research and an iterative design practice including design, toile, sampling processes and motion wear qualitative testing to analyse designs. The use of new pattern cutting methods can improve the fit and comfort and subsequent performance capacity of recreational swimwear without the reliance on high performance materials. The benefits of this method encourage the designer to pattern design to the body shape and utilise fabric properties to meet the gap in the market between the fashion consumer and the elite athlete. Further developments open up opportunities for future developments including smart technologies and complete garment technology applications (Brownbridge, 2016). Keywords: alternative pattern methodologies, one piece pattern design, direction grainline, high stretch knit, recreational swimwear.
Bathing suits