The Desertia Project : speculative fashion and adaptive clothing systems for global climate change : an exegesis presented in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Design, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand

Abstract

With the mutual catastrophic influence of global climate change and human activities, the future becomes increasingly ominous. While we cannot predict future climate scenarios, we can critically examine them. As an indispensable part of human life, clothing holds significant potential in its future function and its ability to draw attention to necessary adaptive changes. This study utilizes the theoretical framework of critical design to speculate about the future world and the garments we will inhabit. The theoretical framework of this exegesis is inextricably linked with its tangible creative outcomes. The central practice-led project, 𝘋𝘦𝘴𝘦𝘳𝘵𝘪𝘢, comprises three interrelated components: an immersive multimedia installation paired with its video documentation, a speculative film, and a visual design process journal. This project explores biomorphic concepts designed for extreme future ecosystems by translating natural adaptive mechanisms into functional clothing components. The physical prototypes integrate 3D printing with sustainable materials like Cai Lun paper yarn to mimic natural survival strategies. To overcome the temporal and spatial constraints of the physical exhibition, video documentation is used to archive and broaden access to the installation. Concurrently, operating as a deliberate provocation, the speculative film synthesizes with soundscapes to confront audiences with a visceral vision of ecological crisis. Serving as an essential support mechanism, the design process journal provides a rigorous methodological account of this translation. Together, the exegesis and the practice ensure a comprehensive exploration of fashion as a critical survival interface. Ultimately, this study reconsiders the current relationship between clothing and our environment, highlighting the radical adaptations necessitated by tomorrow's ecosystems. By visualizing these consequences through a speculative fashion design framework, the project aims to stimulate critical thought about the impacts of climate change and provoke tangible shifts in our current lifestyles.